Brian McCray's Climbing Accomplishments (Topos)

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ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber

Ogden, Utah

Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 15, 2015 - 05:30pm PT

I've been hanging out in the desert with Brian's mutual friend, Keith. We've been thinking a lot about Fly'n, we spread a little ashes one night and have beein honoring the adventures we've shared with "The Dirt Bather". We sure do miss him but as he always said, "He may not be a priest, but he can save your sole".

This was written by Brian McCray's friend, Keith Wentz:

Given the right conditions, the perfect mingling of DNA the double helix can produce a true mutant, a monster of man in epic proportions. Its this miracle of biology that gave us Brian Lee McCray. What some may consider a birth defect others find to be a blessing, weather he was born with three or his mother had the testicle added at birth we do not know. However, it was that brassy pair of his that made nothing impossible or unclimbable... just unclimbed by him, so far. Forty-five years later this mutant leaves behind for future generations the greatest contribution to American sport climbing in decades, a collection of hundreds of high quality routes developed in silence in pursuit of the dream; FREEDOM!!!

Let the following stand as matter of record of just one aspect of Fly'n Brian McCray's climbing accomplishments during his lifetime so as to permit no one to alter, diminish or claim for their own, any of The Beast's accomplishments.

The theory of The Dirt Bather: one must first rid themselves of all worldly responsibilities and devote themselves to the pursuit of the enjoyment of tobacco. After monies paid,tobacco obtained climbing gear becomes the next necessity of life. Brian was one of the cheapest son's of bitches I've ever met. He would forgo medical care, food, shelter, anything but tobacco in order to be able to buy bolts, hangers, air fare, whatever he needed to chase down his dreams. In his own selfish pursuit he would leave behind a path to his vision so that others may climb and enjoy his perspective.

It was this type of sacrifice and devotion that kept Brian always riding at the tip of the spear, always looking for what next, whats new "what will those bastards make us do now?" he would always say. That was the corner he was always trying to turn. This is the level of passion in which he pursued climbing with and I for one hope it inspires other climbers of the next generation to not take from climbing but expand climbing by there involvement. To seek out the original motive of adventure in climbing to boldly climb beyond there predecessors rather than follow guidebooks in pursuit of the dreams of others, follow your own lead.

Our story begins in Las Vegas, Nevada at the other valley view in mid summer 2002 as I returned from a prospecting trip with the tail of a cave, the likes of which had not been seen in America in that day and age. when Brian learned an unclimbed leviathan lay in the Nevada desert just 3 hours from his doorstep, he felt duty bound to investigate and concur. The description was of a place he had only dreampt of, a true proving ground of the next step in sport climbing evolution, multi pitch horizontal sport climbing. The idea may have been intimidating to others but as Fly'n said " I THOUGHT FIRST'S WAS WHAT WE ARE ALL ABOUT, MAN"

As Brian McCray, Brent Clements, Ammon McNeely, and myself stood at the lip of the cave I took a moment to watch their faces as they took in one of the greatest unclimbed features in all the SouthWest. As we made our way to the base of what would soon become one of the crags masterpieces, Pandemonium, Brian stood in awe as he looked out upon a world of steep creamy limestone. It was there, at that precise moment in time that I think his soul was fused, twisted up somehow with the energy of the cave. From then on, the cave would almost become a power source for him, a place he could recharge,refocus and retreat. "Isolate and focus" he would say, just as Jimmy Dunn had taught him.

In that first hour Brian would identify close to fifty routes that would go. On my previous trips to the cave while seeking land use permission from the BLM in order to develop the cave legally. I had identified only 26 routes I thought would go. Many of the lines he spotted would be feature dependant and between 30 to 50 bolt long monsters, three, 12 bolt 13.c's stacked on top of each other as one giant pitch. His plan was to use no hands rests in the middle of the cave to enable the climber to pull his rope through the draws and drop it back down to the belayer who runs out to the middle of the cave so there is enough rope to reach the lip. I thought he was back on the dope again. In those first hours some of his plans seemed lofty, interesting enough 5 short years later Brian did bring it to my attention that the cave now had 40 routes between the two of us. My reply was fine you were right, I was wrong feel better now. "It gives me joy to hear" said Brian.

By the end of the first day we each had lines bolted, routes cleaned and started on number two. This day and pattern of development would continue for the next several years and reach out from the cave to eventually include half a dozen different crags and over 200 routes. In "the canyon" on one cold winter day Brian alone on lead bolted at least 5 routes some in the 5.12 range, by lunch the next day they were old news and Brian moved to his next victim's. Often on those long winter nights he would bolt by head lamp and fire light, then red-point in the morning sun.

It was Brian's wish that someday the world may know of this high octane sanctuary for savage's but ONLY when we were done. "When I am done with it, give it to the parasites", he said. A primary reason for making the information public is the fear of parasitic guide book author's turning a dime on his life's work. He was a hard-man, a true salty dog with a hard line on the givers and takers so now that he is done giving it is open for the taking.

Brian gave a dozen years to Coal Valley so treat it right and enjoy but beware: in the future such crimes as drilling pockets on long established routes, fixed webbing, fixed quick draws and trash will not be tolerated, either by the Bureau of Land Management or by the old guard of monkeys... who will strike down with great vengeance anyone who would attempt to defile or diminish Brian works.

Let ye be warned!!!!! THE 3 SMALL CAVES DIRECTLY ACROSS FROM THE MAIN CAVE MUST NOT BE DEVELOPED PER THE BLM. this area was one of the first pre-approved climbing areas in Nevada and climbers are the only registered user group, don't be "that guy" and f*#k it up for everyone else.

So, go fourth those of you with true adventure in your veins seek the unknown and ye shall find true freedom for just fifty miles from the cave sits yet again the next great climbing area awaiting the likes of the beast to come again, a new "monster of man". Is the beast in YOU?

Beware!!! The climbing areas are remote 100 miles to medical care. Plan ahead. I rescued Brian from the valley twice and he sat there for days. Snakes, flash floods, aliens, snow storms and morading gypsies caused Bian and I problems in the past. Bring extra water, food, tires and fuel. The roads are in very good condition but it's a long 80 mile walk to fix a flat.

Directions:

The cave sits in coal valley in the Golden Gate Range in Lincoln County, Nevada. 3 hours north of Vegas and 1 hour north of Ash Springs, Nevada on the 318 hwy. There are three primary ways into Coal Valley the southern most being mail summit road off the 318. The middle and generally best condition route is Seaman Wash Road. The northerly route is via Timber Pass Road from the 318 hwy.

Of the crags we developed the cave is the most northern, the others being further south in the next 15 miles of the Golden Gate range. From the cave south it goes: Cave, Big Wall, Road Side, Valley View, The Upper Crust, Almaretta Valley, Tiger Wall, Canyon Wall, and Lecher's Lair.

If you found some of the above harsh or critical of The Beast, fear not, for the truth was known by all who knew him. As Brian said "we are both bad men" but monster's make the myth's. So let this monster go down in history as a true visionary. A moutain mercanary fighting the good fight, but fighting with pure evil ( his black rainbow says it all). Brian certainly had a softer side as well, he would go to the ends of the earth for a friend in need, but it isnt the saint in him we have to thank for his climbing accomplishment's, That comes a bit "south of heaven" (F.A McCray/McNeely/Arend - A3+ 5.10) from a dark, hard corner. Should you feel the need to degrade or deminish somehow the works of the great beast, I ask you to please do it in person to a monkey and in a dark alley somewhere... in true Fly'n style. My hands have squeezed the neck of the beast, so now I fear no meer mortals. Understood? Don't run your mouth on the internet, run it in the parking lot.

Burt

Social climber

Angelus Oaks, Ca

Mar 15, 2015 - 06:22pm PT

F*#k yeah Keith! "When I am dead they will see what I have done." The grasp of what one man did in one valley can't be realized without taking a look out there. I have spent months of my life out there with him, one of the best times of my life. I'll be the first to wait in the alley to show what it took to climb with the beast on a regular basis. Miss you mother f*#ker! I will fight to the end Brian, until my light has been snuffed out. F*#k the parasites, f*#k the imposters, we know who is who and who is fake. You taught us well.

bixquite

Social climber

humboldt nation

Mar 15, 2015 - 09:05pm PT

like dead poets society Brian's inspiration breathes life into the living from the great beyond

mike m

Trad climber

black hills

Mar 15, 2015 - 09:15pm PT

awesome I hope theplace remains as he would have wanted. Did you say there are multi pitch roof climbs?

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Mar 15, 2015 - 10:30pm PT

wild!

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber

Out Of Bed

Mar 15, 2015 - 10:34pm PT

Fire and ice

KitKat

Trad climber

Strawberry

Mar 16, 2015 - 12:05am PT

I really miss Brian. What an amazing kind person. I always loved sharing a tobacco rolly with him in the valley at the end of the day. Brian was so humble. I hadn't seen him in years and we randomly ran into each other at the Denver airport. I will forever cherish the bloody Mary with Handsome Mike and Flyin Brian at the Denver Airport. RIP brothers.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Mar 16, 2015 - 05:22am PT

Wow! That's the stuff!

jaaan

Trad climber

Chamonix, France

Mar 16, 2015 - 05:32am PT

Wow what a cave. I had look on Google Earth - what's that strange construction oriented NW/SE about a mile due west of the cave, in Pine Creek?

MisterE

Gym climber

Bishop, CA

Mar 16, 2015 - 06:55am PT

Hell Yeah!

Great thread - thanks for sharing the vision and accomplishments.

He was Legend.

couchmaster

climber

Mar 16, 2015 - 09:04am PT

What a share, thanks.

Grippa

Trad climber

Salt Lake City, UT

Mar 16, 2015 - 11:59am PT

Legend!

lars johansen

Trad climber

West Marin, CA

Mar 16, 2015 - 02:02pm PT

Now that's the dope, thanks-lars

le_bruce

climber

Oakland, CA

Mar 16, 2015 - 02:24pm PT

I had look on Google Earth - what's that strange construction oriented NW/SE about a mile due west of the cave, in Pine Creek?

If we're thinking of the same thing, that's a badass work started in the 70s called City, by M. Heizer

The climbing sounds insane. RIP.

jaaan

Trad climber

Chamonix, France

Mar 16, 2015 - 02:39pm PT

le Bruce - that's exactly what it is! Amazing. Google Earth does quite a good job on it - check it out. Looks like he's got a fair way to go before it's finished...

Thanks.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Mar 16, 2015 - 04:54pm PT

Looks like this vicinity:
http://www.google.com/maps/@38.0427888,-115.3635868,1892m/data=!3m1!1e3?hl=en

Flo Rogers

climber

LasVegas

Mar 22, 2015 - 07:05pm PT

http://unframed.lacma.org/2015/03/18/protect-michael-heizers-city

I don't know what impact this would have on access for climbing, but there's more on the project here. Brian was a fan and got the chance to chat about it with one of the patrons Elaine Wynn. The start of the convo went like this:

Brian - "I've been developing some climbs near Heizer's project have you been out there?"
Elaine Wynn enigmatically "oh yes I have"
Brian "I want to but I think he might come after me with a shotgun"
Elaine Wynn "oh yes he will!"

And it went on from there...

Trad climber

Portland, OR

Mar 22, 2015 - 10:00pm PT

Thanks Keith for sharing,
My time with you and Brian in Dallas only showed me the "softer side of Brian" and what a connection it was. When I first met him at the Dallas airport with you, I thought he was trouble and I felt he and I would not get along. That did not last long as we soon hit it off and spent time trolling around Dallas. I would buy some beers and Brian drank soda as I recall. A couple of years later my visit with you and Brian in Vegas was different. I barley saw him but a year or so later I connected with him in Tucson at the Gem show and again we went out for beers and soda. I can only say, I miss you Brian!