Discussion Topic |
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John Morton
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 24, 2015 - 07:56am PT
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Why is it "dyno"? And what happened to "lunge", which was despised as a shameful act of desperation?
Do climbers lunge any more, or do they just dyno?
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
therealmccoy from Nevada City
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Feb 24, 2015 - 07:57am PT
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Oh f*#k that. I don't dyno or lunge. I just make "dynamic" or "big" moves, and only when fully necessary.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Feb 24, 2015 - 08:06am PT
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'Cause us idiot "real" climbers have allowed those damn sport climbers to dictate terminology.
I say we should rise up and revolt.
REVOLUTION IS IN THE AIR!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Feb 24, 2015 - 08:10am PT
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Curmudgeons rule !
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 24, 2015 - 08:22am PT
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And "huck"
Anyone ever use the phrase " next generation"? It's a verb, as in "Dyno, match and next generation on the knob!" - heard from the mouth of a preteen in queen creek '97
Also in the dept of dissused vernacular, "fire a 'Mo"
 I first heard it from Jim Beyr in camp 4 in '79.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Feb 24, 2015 - 08:53am PT
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Sierra Ledge Rat is revolting.
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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Feb 24, 2015 - 09:06am PT
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Gaston Rebufatt.
A guy who couldn't crack climb straight in so he tried to pry the edges of the crack apart.
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Feb 24, 2015 - 09:24am PT
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Oh man that's jingus.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Feb 24, 2015 - 09:39am PT
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I remember being told to surf right and up to a knob in the Meadows....
To me it meant to flow a series of static moves whilst me feet and hands moved simultaneously, never stopping to keep the pump factor from creeping up to fast.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 24, 2015 - 09:40am PT
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so when did OVERHANG become INVERT?????
I climb with the youth, they are leaving all the old terms behind....
get with the times.
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Psilocyborg
climber
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Feb 24, 2015 - 09:58am PT
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A rose by any other name would smell just as sweet. Its fun to come up with new terms for things you old fuddy duddy.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Feb 24, 2015 - 10:06am PT
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"supertopo"
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Ward Trotter
Trad climber
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Feb 24, 2015 - 10:09am PT
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Does anyone remember the term "hairball" or was that just occasionally used by my particular set of deranged partners?
"Hairball" was often used to characterize something "dicey" but usually more than just ordinary dicey. I think.
Another one was "massive whippage" or "Major whippage" as in "massive whippage involved"
Sometimes the phrase "a real slog" was used to denote a lot of "bush whacking " .
Two terms one doesn't often hear recently are "prang" and "mank" which I believe originated in the UK, used to denote fatal ground falls and marginal gear,respectively.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Feb 24, 2015 - 11:01am PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
Dammit have an important meeting this afternoon, tomorrow will have to be my sick/ski day.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Feb 24, 2015 - 11:17am PT
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I know I'm being partly serious in a remarkably light-hearted thread, but the etymology of "dyno" begins, at the latest, in John Gill's article on bouldering in Summit in the late 1960's. There he described the "lunge" or its more graceful variant, the "swinging lieback." He went on to describe his rating system, where B2 required use of "controlled dynamic technique."
Now what I'd like to know is the origin of all the "points." The only one I completely understand is the one with which I'm most familiar -- the "yellow point," i.e. chickening out without leaving the ground, caused by looking at the intended climb up close.
John
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 24, 2015 - 12:00pm PT
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ThatsCool
climber
Way Out
Feb 24, 2015 - 08:59am PT
Always wondered where "gaston" came from, that's a weird one
Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
Feb 24, 2015 - 09:06am PT
Gaston Rebufatt.
A guy who couldn't crack climb straight in so he tried to pry the edges of the crack apart.
It's entirely based on one photograph in a book. Wide crack, sub vertical rock, footholds and mountain boots. No doubt he could climb cracks at least half decently.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Feb 24, 2015 - 12:33pm PT
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Thank you Tami. The meanings are now all clear, even if I still don't know the word origins. I do recall doing a few unintentionally pointy-point leads, though. One off-width I did early on, in particular, had a fir tree at its base that had a remarkable resemblance to a shish kebab skewer.
If I red point the first five feet, grey point the next five feet, then yellow point, have I accomplished a hat trick?
John
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 24, 2015 - 12:38pm PT
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Lunge, dyno or dynamic moves are best described (personally at least) by percentages. E.g. for me it's a 50% move.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 24, 2015 - 12:40pm PT
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http://www.mountainproject.com/v/big-moe/105722572
I have "bicycled" on the Apron because it was almost impossible to stand in one place on some of that damn polish in EB's. Once, while caught in a thunderstorm, I bicycled and hucked a big mo for the chains to keep from taking a screamer.
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