mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 22, 2015 - 01:08am PT
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Great minds think alike at one a. m.
I was working It from the other end, however, the aid route, if you will.
Reviews of the Juice King and his Court?
Takes a big-ass spool to hold that much thread.
Sports Illustrated article on Dawn Wall 1971
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=868365&msg=868365#msg868365
"It's really very boring," Caldwell says. "The reason we succeeded where other attempts failed is that we are able to stand sheer tedium. Pure sloth. Sluggish metabolisms.
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Since this reconnaissance won't come until months after the Jirishanca venture, the Middle Andes subsidiary of the Lower Sierra EDF Society will have ample opportunity to indulge what Caldwell calls "a real penchant for falling into a party situation."
A fine example of the society's uninhibited approach came one morning not long ago when the group impulsively decided to bake muffins at 4 a.m. The muffins all baked, someone began thinking how delightful they would be to throw at each other. A Great Muffin War ensued, an occasion of such hilarity that requests have often been made for a reprise. (In the midst of the fun, however, Caldwell demonstrated that he has a serious side. Thinking compassionately of a friend to whom he had not written for two years and who was missing the Muffin War, he sat down with needle and thread and sewed a stamp on a particularly rubbery muffin. He then addressed and mailed the pastry to him, without bothering to include any explanatory comment.)
The society also sacrificed several large cans of Reddi-Wip to an indoor whipped-cream war. Beryl and Warren managed to get completely covered with Reddi-Wip, topped with a generous quantity of dust. Deciding that they needed a shower, they danced across Yosemite Meadows toward the communal lavatory under a large sheet. They were stopped by a SECURITY guard, who wanted to know what they were doing. Their explanation didn't help.
Dawn Wall - Original Newspaper Coverage
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1128872&msg=1128872#msg1128872
Someone needs to find the Lito Tejeda Flores letter to Mountain.
"experiential content of life on the wall"
When Batso was so excoriated in Mountain mag after TWOTEML Tejeda-Flores was the lone voice in the letters saying that what Batso did was visionary and groundbreaking in terms of the "experiential content" of life on a wall, and that it could serve as a template.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail." RW Emerson
Batso's Dawn Wall Ascent Now on Video!
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1631289&msg=1631289#msg1631289
Post by Werner:
Why so depressing? I didn't feel any of that.
He slept most of the day during that winter in camp 4 and got up around 4 in the afternoon.
The Mountain room bar would be opening soon and his spirits were up.
Then off to drink the wine.
So fuking what!
There were times I'd sit with him and I didn't say anything for hours and he'd just ramble on about something. I didn't even care nor paid any attention to what the hell he was talking about.
Then I would get up and say good night to him and he'd smile.
He was a good man.
I left him alone to his destiny.
He was fairly happy during that winter among us .....
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