Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Scalparm
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 21, 2015 - 02:40pm PT
|
Can someone please explain to me what the requirements are for claiming a free ascent of something? I am very impressed by the efforts and achievements of Caldwell and Jorgeson, but I don't understand how their objective has been accomplished since they fell several times and it took them 19 days. For example, if I fell on anything multi-pitch or other I would still consider it a project. Is it different with first ascents?
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 02:55pm PT
|
You must mail a 3-page inquiry and $100 US to GDavis, 4558 My House Lane, CA...
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 02:58pm PT
|
I understood it to be that they each climbed every pitch without falling, as part of a single "push" leaving the ground and then reaching the top. A fall means to go to the last belay (or last no holds rest) and re-climb from that point. In this case, the definition of push is a bit extended given the extra people bringing supplies to them. But until I can climb pitch after pitch of 5.14 and do it better, I'm not going to question that approach.
GDavis, I tried to set up a Wells Fargo Bill Pay but they wouldn't process it without a zip code...
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 02:58pm PT
|
FFA= they climbed every pitch free from the bottom up. That's it.
FCFA (first continuous free ascent)= each partner climbs every pitch free, no falls, no redo's. You fall you start again at the bottom.
Edited for a good point.
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 03:01pm PT
|
So a top rope is a FFA. Just hands and feet.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 03:02pm PT
|
Haha they're on ellen! Lol
|
|
LearningTrad
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 03:18pm PT
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
Jan 21, 2015 - 03:01pm PT
So a top rope is a FFA. Just hands and feet.
Wait...
You local?
|
|
Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 03:30pm PT
|
Oh well, it's too bad if they didn't get the first free ascent. They made a really great effort, though.
|
|
Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 03:35pm PT
|
Actually, yes, a toprope ascent can be a FFA. There are many climbs like that in Josh.
Come on people, this is climbing 101
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 03:44pm PT
|
So on a multi pitch climb you would have to toprope every pitch in order to qualify for ffa? Tommy and Kevin had freed every pitch prior to this ascent, but not in one push..
|
|
MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 03:53pm PT
|
I think that Mike's FCFA is what climbers consider it,
and FFA is what the general public considers it...
with just hands and feet and a baby in a back-pack...
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 03:58pm PT
|
On this particular climb each one of them led all the crux pitches clean (no falls, no takes). When they fell, they lowered and came back to send the pitch in a few hours or on another day.
When I think of a multi pitch FFA, I believe to claim it, the team has to either swing leads with every crux pitch being led clean by someone and the whole thing being climbed without any falls/takes by at least one of the climbers. If the leader falls, he/she will pull the rope and try to send the pitch again or the other teammate is gonna give it an attempt. If he/she did they can keep going. If neither of them can send the pitch, they can't claim the FFA.
|
|
R.B.
Big Wall climber
47N 122W
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 05:42pm PT
|
The moment you weight a piece of gear, such as in a piece catching a lead fall, YOU ARE AID CLIMBING! FFA ... I don't think so.
|
|
rurprider
Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 05:47pm PT
|
+1....for the Bumper Stickers for the HATERS!! Two for Scalparm (front & back).
Tommy and Kevin = FFA of the Dawn Wall, but alas not FCFA. Great tenacity, perseverence, determination........simply INSPIRATIONAL!!!!
|
|
R.B.
Big Wall climber
47N 122W
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 05:56pm PT
|
I long for the days of the Traditional and purist style of First Ascents:
On-sight lead, from the ground up, no previewing, no rehearsing, no sculpting, no preplaced gear, no falls, no hangs, no lowering down and trying it again. You fall or misjudge, your done. You want to claim a FFA, use a style to be proud of ... this is nothing more than "glorified flag-pole sitting."
but these boys can send some pretty sick stuff, so for that -- some style points may be warranted for the first Big-Wall Bouldering ascent)
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 06:33pm PT
|
RB on the Salathe
What happened to the day when people only used their hands and feet to get their ass up the rock?! Jumaring up sh#t you can't climb...what a wanker.
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 06:37pm PT
|
I long for the days of the Traditional and purist style of First Ascents:
I long for the days when being the best in the world was only 5.12
Conform to my rules you damn 5.14 climbers! WTF 5.15?
WHAT?!! 5.12 is the new 5.10?
|
|
RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 08:12pm PT
|
Drljefe posted this a while back. It is what all of these threads sound like to me:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
|
|
coolrockclimberguy69
climber
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2015 - 09:23pm PT
|
The nitpicking regarding this proud ascent is second only to the media coverage.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!