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michael feldman
Mountain climber
millburn, nj
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 21, 2015 - 11:58am PT
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I was watching a great clip of Tommy on pitch 15 (through Patagonia's website) and I noticed that he is not wearing a helmet. I know a ground fall is not an issue (because it isn't going to happen with these guys and because a helmet wouldn't help anyway), but why aren't they wearing a helmet anyway? It seems that they could easily have taken a whipper, particularly on a traverse, and hit their heads. Was it a matter of comfort over safety? Was it a matter of looking better while being filmed? On the one hand, I get it. They're awesome and know the likelihood of danger. They also are not advertising themselves as role models. On the other hand, accidents wouldn't be called accidents if they were on purpose.
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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Jan 21, 2015 - 12:00pm PT
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You should just keep your helmet on all the time.
Edit: Even when you're not climbing.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jan 21, 2015 - 12:01pm PT
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It only takes one ABC cameraperson to knock a rock off the top. :)
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Under Achiever
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Jan 21, 2015 - 12:03pm PT
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Sometimes they didn't, sometimes they did.
I think they're experienced enough to decide when.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 21, 2015 - 12:05pm PT
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Too many g'damn cameras for helmets bro. We're trying to make a movie here.
Not possible to look world class enough with a g'damn helmet on. Did Honnlove solo Half Bucket with a helmet on? NO!!
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 21, 2015 - 12:07pm PT
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They were gunna die for sure...
BUT... maybe there is a better forum for this topic.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 21, 2015 - 12:12pm PT
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Jedi don't wear no g'damn helmets......
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 21, 2015 - 12:16pm PT
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A helmet isn't magic and may help some times but it isn't as if these guys haven't considered the risks involved. If I had a dollar for every helmet nazi I saw in Joshua Tree climbing with the rope behind their legs and shitty placed pro I would be able to afford one that actually fit - then I might even wear one, too.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 21, 2015 - 12:22pm PT
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"These are not the helmets you seek.."
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Jan 21, 2015 - 12:25pm PT
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If I had a dollar for every helmet nazi I saw in Joshua Tree climbing with the rope behind their legs and shitty placed pro I would be able to afford one that actually fit - then I might even wear one, too.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
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Jan 21, 2015 - 12:27pm PT
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I'd say they wore helmets at the top for the cameras, not the other way around. I've never owned a helmet or worn one. I used to know a climber who insisted it was necessary to wear gloves while belaying. Extremely safety conscious but not the most solid climber, and one of the few people I've known who died in a climbing accident. I was all set to fail the belay test at a gym the other day. I know they want you to go hand over hand on the rope so you never let go. I told them that belaying was like fishing, you had to sense vibrations in the rope, since often you cant see what you're partner is doing. Same reason why an atc is better than a grigri. Belaying isn't just holding the rope. A better case can be made for helmets, but better avoid people who think helmets are a major issue.
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Jodie
Sport climber
Oregon
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Jan 21, 2015 - 12:48pm PT
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jan 21, 2015 - 01:17pm PT
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Rock fall happens, even when the wall is clean.
I've suffered a bad head injury from rockfall when I was 19 years old and invinsible, but ever since then I have always worn a helmet.
Don't wait until your head gets bashed in. Wear a f*#king helmet.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Jan 21, 2015 - 01:20pm PT
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The route overhangs so much that anything falling would have missed them by a mile.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 21, 2015 - 02:13pm PT
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Wearing a helmet would make p15 harder.
In the video, you can see how close his head / face is to the wall on many of the moves.
p15 was already hard enough.
It also is one of the safer pitches to fall on - you swing down parallel to the wall.
Vs. a pitch where you could swing down and directly impact the side of a dihedral.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 21, 2015 - 02:33pm PT
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I've never owned a helmet or worn one
And some Africans think they can pass their HIV/AIDS on by screwing a virgin.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jan 21, 2015 - 02:41pm PT
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Two guys at Josh, two different climbs, both 15 feet up when they fell and the only piece pulled. They landed head first. One had a dislocated ankle. One died.
Guess which one was wearing a helmet?
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nopantsben
climber
europe
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Jan 21, 2015 - 02:45pm PT
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helmets are efficient in case of rockfall.
if you fall, it is quite likely the helmet will not play a role in the outcome.
(edit: if you're getting into aid climbing, forget what i said and wear a helmet. thinking of it, unless you're really sure you don't need one for the 5.14 you're about to climb on el cap, always wear a helmet.)
ps. who knows who reads this stuff....
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 21, 2015 - 02:54pm PT
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All situations are the same.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 21, 2015 - 02:55pm PT
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I wear a helmet when the risk of taking a large, unknown fall is greater. Falling objects are secondary, especially on overhung terrain. My perspective is that is what I saw Kevin and Tommy doing. On the "trad" pitches with run-outs and questionable gear, they wore helmets. On the "sport" sections where the falls were clean, relatively short and well practiced - they didn't. I think this approach is pretty common among experienced climbers.
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