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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 15, 2015 - 11:49am PT
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My partners and I are thinking about going up there to see what it's all about but am not sure about how much chalk will be needed? What is the best type for el cap granite? We use flashed around here or BD since that's all there really is, is there a specialized kind that valley hardmen use which could be an advantage?
As well I'm curious if anyone knows how many tick marks I'll need to make? They aren't shown on the free topo which is kind of misleading.
I know that blocks of chalk are better for tick marks but I like having fine powder in one of those little refillable balls in my chalkbag as well. Anyone have experience bringing both blocks and powder up on a big wall? Will I need an extra haulbag? Maybe an extra chalkbag? One for chalking my hands and one for installing tick marks?
Our biggest concern is that if the tick marks are in-situ like on many modern routes that we might be carrying the block chalk for nothing? But at the same time if all the ticks were brushed off by the BD staff we could be in serious trouble if we run out of chalk and have to install our own ticks. We won't have the support of Adidas fixed lines or Honnold to bring us beer so these are some major details we need to consider as we will be bringing everything with us and only moving up- of course everyone knows that the less you bring the better chance you have of finishing before dark.
I don't really want to turn this into a controversy but, it seems like the FAists are trying to covet some key details of the climb to deter future ascents, or maybe they just want to preserve some of the mystery of the FFA for future ascents. I am searching for the truth and hope to report back with good info soon since there aren't many details out there yet on what really happened up on the dawn wall recently. I'd hate to have our ascent thwarted because of not having the proper chalk beta.
Either way I thought I'd ask here before going for it because people here seem to know lots about this kind of stuff and always have helpful responses.
God bless.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Jan 15, 2015 - 11:52am PT
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Crayola colored drawing chalk. At least a dozen boxes. Good luck!
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Jan 15, 2015 - 11:53am PT
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I've discovered late in life that sucking on a Lifesaver, then spitting on your hands and letting it almost dry makes them much stickier than chalk. Might work up there.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 15, 2015 - 12:04pm PT
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Ryan, you are a boulderer. Everyone knows a boulderer can't climb something like this.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2015 - 12:07pm PT
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Great ideas guys. I never thought of the crayola, only major concern that immediately comes to mind is that I'd need to reinforce the pig so the sticks didn't break, so annoying writing with little pieces.
Mr Gill, since you basically invented chalk in climbing I am going to have to trust that this is just you being on the cutting edge once again. What kind of lifesavers do you find works best? Classic flavours or the sour ones? I'd imagine the tropical flavours like pineapple would be best for the cruxes as those types of fruits are very sticky in their natural state.
Well I'm off to go to the gym, I'm gonna need super strong fingers and biceps if I hope to have a good chance at doing this first try. Will pick up some lifesavers on the way.
This is bouldering I thought Justin, the ropes are only in case of a fall.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 15, 2015 - 12:09pm PT
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They are all just boulders if you look from enough distance.
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redrocker
climber
NV
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Jan 15, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
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When I did it I didn't use chalk. Was worried that the extra weight might tip the scales against me.
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John M
climber
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Jan 15, 2015 - 12:11pm PT
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It doesn't matter which chalk that you use. Just super glue the chalk to your skin. It will last a long time and then you won't have to bring very much chalk..
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Gene
climber
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Jan 15, 2015 - 12:12pm PT
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Just bolt the chalk to the wall with ropes.
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Jan 15, 2015 - 12:20pm PT
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Just bolt the chalk to the wall with ropes.
Why does this make me laugh so much?
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Jan 15, 2015 - 12:25pm PT
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What kind of lifesavers do you find works best?
Sticky hand formulation is a serious business involving various centers of the brain as well as timing. Personally, I find Wild Cherry is best.
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redrocker
climber
NV
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Jan 15, 2015 - 12:35pm PT
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Is anyone else as pissed as I am that Mr. Gill has been holding out on us until now with the lifesaver innovation?
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
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Jan 15, 2015 - 12:39pm PT
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Sticky chalk? You see, the route's only been up one day and people are already inventing new climbing techniques. For that 5.13 move off the belay near the end of the route, put superglue on your hands and get through the move before its totally dry.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jan 15, 2015 - 12:41pm PT
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I was thinking they could rename the free climb "Chalk up another one"
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jan 15, 2015 - 12:44pm PT
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Holy buckets, jgill, that sounds even worse than pof. Boulders covered with sticky livesaver residue, and swarms of ants running all over them. Get a clue, newb!
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John M
climber
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Jan 15, 2015 - 12:45pm PT
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For that 5.13 move off the belay near the end of the route, put superglue on your hands and get through the move before its totally dry.
Thats how Tommy lost his finger. Due to that terrible accident which I won't describe, they came up with a dilution method of mixing in saliva from sucking on wild cherry life savers. Which keeps it sticky, but doesn't let it dry too quickly.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
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Jan 15, 2015 - 12:47pm PT
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^ Im sorry. I'm so embarrassed!
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redrocker
climber
NV
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Jan 15, 2015 - 12:52pm PT
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Anyone who takes issue with TC and KJ's style and ethics should at least respect that they seem to be 100% honest about what they were doing, did and now....have done.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2015 - 12:56pm PT
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When did I mention a problem with their style and ethics?
I mentioned that they may be coveting, not that they were liars.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
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Jan 15, 2015 - 01:04pm PT
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There's obviously no other way to do the route. Maybe someday, there will be climbers that make Tommy Caldwell look like Fritz Wiesner, and just cruise those 5.14s. I think the ethical issue is whether they put up a route on a natural line, that will make a good route for others to try to repeat. Seems like they did, and that the grade is more or less consistent and sustained. They used every trick they could and barely got up it. That's the limit of what's possible, for now at least.
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