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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 2, 2015 - 03:03pm PT
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I borrowed these from Jay Smith about 35 years ago, they got buried in a box in a storage unit &
I recently rediscovered them! I phoned Jay and left a message on his machine but have not heard
back yet. 50 topos and a list of First Ascents! There is minor water damage to the felt pen markings.
I will start with Bear River and return to this post later with the other areas. These are in jpeg
format because I could not figure out how to post pdf files but if anyone wants the pdf files I will email those directly to you.
Bear River - 8 topos (which Jay Smith calls Bear Creek)
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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What a cool trove! BTW, where is Bear Creek/River?
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coolrockclimberguy69
climber
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Awesome!!
I'd put a fiver on Jay having the league record for most high quality career first ascents. His topos for Castle Valley in the new Moab guide are nicely done.
Feels like I'm reading some declassifed gov't documents without any redactions.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 03:56pm PT
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K-man
Bear River resevoir is west of Calaveras Dome on Hwy 88
The Domes are below the dam.
Bob
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 04:53pm PT
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Tad
I used them for a few years and put them away. Jay Smith continued
on his climbing career which involved moving away from Tahoe.
He never mentioned them again and I lost track of him as he got
involved in mountaineering. I feel rather sheepish.
Bob Pinckney
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 06:06pm PT
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I particularly enjoyed the comments from two of the climbs above.
Crystal Blue Persusion -
"on this climb the leader
must execute a 5.8 move
20' out from a poor knife
blade. If it were to pull,
the leader would take
a 100' fall into the river"
Straight Shot -
"this route goes directly up
the center of the 1000' apron.
there is probably no move
harder than 5.7, however
they sometimes must be
executed over 100' out from
protection"
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 06:31pm PT
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the First Ascent List for Bear River Resevoir & other areas
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 06:57pm PT
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The Pie Shop - 1 Topo
Sugar Loaf - 2 Topos
Indian Rock - 1 Topo
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 07:03pm PT
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First Ascent Lists - Lovers Leap & Sugar Loaf
First Ascent Lists - Pie Shop & Calaveras Area
First Ascent List - Red Rocks
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 07:14pm PT
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Lovers Leap - 16 routes on 13 Topos, this includes 2 girdle traverses. In no particular order.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Wow, this is great stuff Bob! I know the place very well and am trying to put the topos to the walls. A couple of them jumped out at me right away.
Crack-a-tor, or Crack-a-toe-a 5.8, is a now retrobolted sport route rated 5.9 called Golden Piton. I basically got in a fight over it after an ugly bolt chopping incident that got out of hand. Never had a doubt it had already been done. But who am I to judge, I accidently added a bolt to these next "two" newly surfaced Smith routes. Which I'll gladly fix this coming season.
Crystal Blue Persuasion I climbed thinking it was a new route. I placed a bolt on it's first pitch just below where the piton is. I missed the pin because as I was about 6ft to it's right when I found a #1 camalot placement under the roof. I got to the ledge and placed gear behind a big flake which shifted away from the wall. So I placed a two bolt anchor. After lowering down and cleaning the pitch (solo belay) I saw the pin and knew I had been skunked. I still need to chop that bolt but I think the anchor should remain as the natural one is not really much good.
Geronimo I'm not 100% on, but I think it follows along closely with a route I did several years ago I called Black Vibrations. Funny because it was named in loose reference to Rastaman Vibrations, another Jay Smith route over on Cal Domes. It may be another route I have not done about 20ft to the left though. I'll need to go out there and take a closer look as the topo is a bit vague.
The Only Solution is an obvious route which I climbed thinking it was a F.A. I never named it (guess it already had one;)but rated the first pitch 5.7 as did Jay. I never climbed the second pitch but guessed it would go as a 5.10 offwidth. Unfortunately I added a bolt on the traverse at the start to prevent a nasty fall into the water which you would then immediately fall over a 25ft waterfall. Guess I should pop that one out too.
Most of the other ones I'm sure I know where they are. Just need to confirm it by going out there and climbing them. How cool is it to see these topos so many years after they were made. Thank you for posting these. It has shed a huge ray of light on an area that is known for being left in the dark.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 07:18pm PT
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Lovers Leap continued
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Way cool.
Lots of formerly missing FA info and corrected route names for Cal Domes, too.
I recently updated my page on that, and will update it again.
I'll add the Bear River stuff and Penstock Cracks, too.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 07:27pm PT
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Tommorrow or Sunday I will finish with Calaveras Dome area - 20 to 25 Topos. I think most of these have
been released before & I am not sure they are all Jays. I have to scan them and then I will post.
I am glad they are being well received!
Bob Pinckney
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Cool - it will be great to see those original Cal Domes topos (I was hoping these were in the 50)!
I have some old copies and I can see the handwriting is Jay's.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Couple of those ratings are gross sandbags. I went up on the Gamoke, rope solo, prior to Jay and Richards climb. I had already done the crux but rapped off higher from the handcrack since I was out of 2-3 inch hexes. Was going to return to finish it solo but the scroundels beat me too it. Definitely a little 5.10 on that one.
Richard and Jay did the upper pitches of Sudden Death, most definitely 5.9 and poorly protected. Cashner and I added two lower pitches, once again sandbag rated (to be in character with the upper)and poorly protected.
Blue Wind was never 5.9.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Very cool!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Well it's about time you returned Jaybro's beta! ;)
not the first time there was a Jay Anderson (Jaybro)/Jay Smith confusion...
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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True that!! too cool!, Wow, thnx for showing the history of the spiral wring!(notebook pages)
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!