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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 19, 2014 - 12:16am PT
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whatevs. I got my own vee four proj here in town.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 19, 2014 - 02:47am PT
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All the hard pitches, which leaves 3 5.13 and 8 5.12 pitches up higher, but that is still big news.
I think it means the crux traverse pitches and the dyno pitch were redpointed.
[edited after Vlad posted the topo]
Oh my goodness!!! After six years I finally sent this beast of a pitch. Inspired by Keven's fight to the death near miss.This officially means all the hard individual pitches have been redpointed. I am so psyched my hands are shaking! Thanks for the rad photo @jeffjohnson_beyondandback http://www.facebook.com/pages/Tommy-Caldwell/180070212030430
(cool photo of Tommy leading traverse pitch at dusk with a headlamp; I'm unable to link it directly)
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Nov 19, 2014 - 03:30am PT
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^^ that IS a cool image!
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Nov 19, 2014 - 06:57am PT
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Tremendous news!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Nov 19, 2014 - 07:01am PT
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Wow, that's big news. Pretty inspiring!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Nov 19, 2014 - 08:35am PT
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Imagine the mix of emotions when it all comes together in a single push with no falls- after working so hard for so long on something so close to impossible, with very few if any peers in the world to fully appreciate the extent of commitment required. Pretty out there.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 19, 2014 - 09:01am PT
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Great! Now stringing them together in one push awaits.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Nov 19, 2014 - 09:48am PT
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Rad, Tognar (Totally Gnarly), Bitchin, Cool, Excellent…..Give 'er!!!!! Git 'er done!!!!
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Brian
climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2014 - 11:43am PT
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Great! Now stringing them together in one push awaits.
Here you go Jim!
According to Jorgeson, the team will now take a week of rest for Thanksgiving "to let our bodies rest."
"Then, if all goes to plan, we will prepare for a send push some time in December."
Stay tuned ...
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Nov 19, 2014 - 12:49pm PT
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I like this summation from Deadpoint magazine;
Tommy and Kevin plan to attempt a ground up, in-a-push, free ascent sometime in December as the weather allows. Freeing the line in a push is the logical next step and considered by many to be the accomplishment necessary to call the route “sent.” But yesterday’s success could be the most momentous occasion in the evolution of the Dawn Wall project. With all the pitches redpointed, the style of ascent can only be improved upon. Generations of future climbers now have a free route on El Cap to push standards on: in-a-push, in-a-day, no-falls ascents, speed records, and onsight attempts (as ridiculous as all that may sound).
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Nov 19, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
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This is awesome! However, I'm a bit confused. I was under the impression that there are three 5.14+ pitches on the wall. Tommy freed the middle one last year - the second traverse pitch. This picture appears to be of the first traverse pitch and probably the hardest one on the route. When was the dyno pitch freed? Anyone have an idea? [edited - I see they haven't redpointed the "easy" 13+ pitches]
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 19, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
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Dawn @ dusk
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 19, 2014 - 01:02pm PT
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Climbing mag suggests the 5.13+ pitches above the traverse have not been red pointed but freed on top rope. But they aren't "hard" pitches apparently to these guys…..
I hope the weather works out so they can get a ground-up ascent.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Nov 19, 2014 - 01:03pm PT
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One of the best El Cap pix ever!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
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Nov 19, 2014 - 02:40pm PT
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That IS a great pic, huh?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 19, 2014 - 02:46pm PT
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Beautiful pic! It's rare that i get excited about an upcoming climbing event but this one has me jacked.
There are three elements, in my mind, that make this special:
the unbelievable dogged determination over so many years
the even more unbelievable talent of the climbers
the fact that they are such humble, down to earth, great guys
Best wishes!
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Nov 19, 2014 - 05:57pm PT
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That is a great picture.
Psyched for the team and staying tuned...
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 19, 2014 - 06:08pm PT
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I just saw that post on FB.
The amount of work that this route has taken totally dwarfs all of the other free routes on El Cap, and I think Tommy has done all of them in quick time.
I have just been hoping that they send it before they get old!
If you have ever aided any of those pitches, the idea of freeing them will blow your mind.
It is also naturally cold on that part of the wall, even in May. It is wild that they have to do it when it is so cold.
Here I am freezing my ass off while belaying the molar over 30 years ago:
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 19, 2014 - 06:12pm PT
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Balaclava + shorts = Californian? :-)
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!