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MarkWestman
Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
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I think the fourth was Peter Arbic and Tim Auger, and fifth was Andy DeKlerk and Julie Brugger.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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I think Ward and Dan were #4, this would have been 1984 or 1985?
PA and Tim climbed it in the early 90's?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Luke Cormier #5
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Thanks for the suggestion, Bruce. Who made did make the six first descents of Alberta's North Face?
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Peter Arbic
climber
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4 Ward Robinson and Danny Guthrie, 5 Andy and Julie
, 6 PA and Tim...I believe Scott Backes and Bill Bancroft somewhere in here too?
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nah000
climber
canuckistan
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^^^^
uuuhhh... are you aware that the person who wrote what you are questioning is the person who made the next ascent?
ie. unless someone has a published source or deklerk or brugger on the line, that's about as good a quality of info as we're going to get...
speaking of which: Peter Arbic, if you're interested in throwing down fingers to keyboard, there are definitely eyes and ears around the campfire that'd love to hear an alberta ascent story or two...
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Avery
climber
NZ
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That seven day ascent is true and correct.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Julie always enjoyed camping.
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Sport-o-land
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This thread definitely needs a pic.
here is one from this summer while approaching the NE ridge. We talked about coming back for the NF but i was a little fried after the NE ridge. Some serious choss-aneering up there. And climbing the north face in July these days seems like playing a rigged game of roulette with odds favoring the house.
I am also a bit surprised to hear Andy and Julie spent 7 days up there. Would love to hear that story.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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I can believe the Andy and Julie story. They were both quite tough. I went over to their house in Seattle one winter day to find them both hanging out indoors in puffy jackets. They saved money by never heating the place and just put more clothes on.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Hi there "mikeyschaefer"
Many thanks for the pic, good ones are hard to find.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Can someone please tell me a little bit about Bill Bancroft?
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Peter Arbic, high on the North Face of Mt Alberta. 1992
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Avery
climber
NZ
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During the 4th Ascent of the North Face of Alberta, Dan Guthrie and Ward Robinson made it to the ice alcove above the crux. They then spent the night standing on ice with their crampons sticking out through the bottom of their sleeping bags! (info courtesy of PA)
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Nov 10, 2014 - 01:31am PT
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Hi Avery,
Julie Brugger and I did do the North Face of Alberta in early September 1994.
I think it was the 4th ascent, but I'm not sure. The log in the Alberta hut book just before us was about an epic retreat in bad weather that Sean Daugherty had, so maybe that puts a time line to it.
We walked in over Woolly shoulder to the Alberta hut the first day.
Descended down to the base and climbed the ice field and yellow band and about 2 or 3 pitches of the head-wall on the second day. We found a nice small ledge for a sitting bivvy which was fine.
The third day we climbed the rest of the rock pitches and had a bivvy just under the summit ice field due to a thunderstorm.
The fourth day we summitted and descended the Japanese route to the Alberta hut again
And the 5th day we walked out.
Weather was good except for the brief electrical storm, conditions were good, cold and clear, and we had a lot of fun.
Many Thanks,
Andy de Klerk
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Nov 10, 2014 - 03:27am PT
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Tim (Auger) and I planned it around the full moon. Belayed the whole lower bit cause we only had leather boots and there was tons of stone-fall on the ice field . We were past the yellow bands by 11 and would have moved faster if we had put the rock shoes on sooner . Rock is for the most part excellent. The crux pitch had a shitty belay and not great gear , Tim used a big hook . A few more pitches of good rock brought us a nice ledge. We fixed the last pitch before Tim did this wild king swing in fading light to a trickle of water out on the face. Comfy enough bivy, cook up by the full moon. Tim said I snored . In the morning we watched two climbers approach across the glacier just down and left of the face, unloaded a couple of boxcars worth of rock at them. They turned around. Some guy from Vegas? We had as leisurely a breakfast as you can , got up to the ice and on the summit around noon, stumbled euphorically in to the hut , before sundown. We were lucky, I had a very good , very smart , partner. He's pretty lucky too. (1992)
Peter Arbic
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Peter Arbic
climber
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Nov 10, 2014 - 08:55am PT
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Well BJ you were correct and my recollections not accurate concerning Andy and Julies timing . Not sure why this is all of interest but now you have it from the horses mouh
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Nov 10, 2014 - 09:35am PT
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Cool thread Avery!!
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