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Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
stoneshirt
climber
Volcan,Panama
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 29, 2014 - 04:21pm PT
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Hello.I haven't climbed since around 1980.I climbed a lot during the 70's.
Things were different then.Can you help me understand this new way of doing things? When we climbed,we climbed every Pitch,thus "doing a Climb,meant climbing the Route and Second Man Cleaning.Now all I see is the Second(Two Man Party)Jumaring and Cleaning,so in effect he is only "Climbing" every other Pitch(assuming they are swapping Leads.Whats up with this.Is it solely for speed? As that seems to be a bragging point.
stoneshirt.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 29, 2014 - 04:31pm PT
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There are many types of climbing.
On multipitch aid climbing, it is common to follow pitches with ascenders,
because it is faster/easier, and "it's aid either way".
But on some speed climbs, both people free/aid climb simultaneously if the difficulty is not too high.
I know when Jim Herson did the Nose with his daughter Kara, she did not
use ascenders. I don't know if this made it faster, or if it reduced risk
because he could give her a close belay.
On one pitch sport climbs, people often don't even follow.
Instead each leads the pitch separately.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Ogden, Utah
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Sep 29, 2014 - 06:15pm PT
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The short answer is: If it doesn't go free then the second has to jumar.
You must have not been doing any hard aid walls.
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thebravecowboy
climber
hold on tight boys
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Sep 29, 2014 - 09:25pm PT
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what's a jumar?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Sep 29, 2014 - 09:26pm PT
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You must have not been doing any hard aid walls. Like anybody gives a f*#k about "hard aid walls'.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Sep 30, 2014 - 12:59am PT
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Like anybody gives a f*#k about "hard aid walls'.
I do.
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Sep 30, 2014 - 01:12am PT
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On one pitch sport climbs, people often don't even follow.
Even better sport when no one even bothers to climb it at all.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Sep 30, 2014 - 07:30am PT
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bump
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Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
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