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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 13, 2014 - 07:54am PT
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I am so sorry to report the death of Brian Delaney.
Brian was rope-soloing, yesterday, at Cathedral Ledge, in North Conway, NH, when something went terribly wrong. Brian was extremely experienced, and still at the top of his game. Brian had over 40 years experience, and still had the fire burning in him, as he did the Salathe Wall, just last year.
Sincere condolences to his family, relatives, and friends. He will be missed by many climbers of his generation.
Generic Crack (5.9+), Donnelly Canyon, Indian Creek, Utah
FA: Jim Dunn, Brian Delaney, 1976
Though the route name is boring (the FA party never officially titled it), the climbing is far from it. This was the first route in Donnelly Canyon. At 130 feet long, the splitter starts at hand-sized and widens to fists at the top. Unlike many Creek cracks, this one has slots that fit big hexes perfectly. (Brian Delaney led the first pitch, placing only a few hexes.) There is a 100-foot second pitch of 5.10 offwidth, but it’s not done nearly as often as the classic first pitch.
Guidebook: Rock Climbing Utah, by Stewart Green
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ray-t
climber
Asheville, NC
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Jul 13, 2014 - 08:32am PT
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Goodbye, Brian. An enormous loss on so many levels. I am grateful to have shared friendship and adventures with you my friend.
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crankster
Trad climber
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Jul 13, 2014 - 08:44am PT
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Sorry to hear. My condolences.
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Jul 13, 2014 - 10:26am PT
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My condolances
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 13, 2014 - 11:40am PT
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Terrible news....condolences to family and friends.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Jul 13, 2014 - 11:47am PT
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Condolences to family friends and loved ones.
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sandstone conglomerate
climber
sharon conglomerate central
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Jul 13, 2014 - 07:20pm PT
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Condolences to friends and family.
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Bob Palais
Trad climber
UT
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Jul 13, 2014 - 08:04pm PT
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I'm very sad to hear this. I haven't seen Brian for quite a while, but he was super kind and positive every time I saw him. The first day I met him, in 1975, he was on crutches at the base of Airation, with Ed Webster, Mike Hartrich. He used them to get to the base, then tied in and sailed up. I still have pictures from that day somewhere. He was climbing with his brother Marc (k?) a lot then. But he didn't talk about his climbs much, just enjoyed them and was incredibly encouraging to others. I can see from the comments here and elsewhere that he always retained those qualities and warm smile.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Jul 13, 2014 - 08:58pm PT
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So sorry to hear of this.
My sincere condolences to his family and to his many friends.
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SofCookay
climber
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Jul 14, 2014 - 06:55am PT
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I didn't know him well, but we both frequented the Maine Rock Gym and I would run in to him occasionally at crags in NH. He was a quiet, kind man, humble, with much love for his wife and daughter. My sincere condolences to Brian's friends and family.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 14, 2014 - 07:05am PT
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Sad loss of an historical and beloved figure in New Hampshire/Maine climbing.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jul 14, 2014 - 07:09am PT
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I didn't know him, but his loss is clearly felt deeply by those who did. My condolences to his friends and family. Very sad.
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ray-t
climber
Asheville, NC
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Jul 14, 2014 - 07:17am PT
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Hello everyone, we have set up an email address to collect stories and photos of our dear friend Brian Delaney. It is incredibly comforting to his family to hear of the ways he touched the hearts of so many people for so long. If you ever shared a smile or a conversation or a rope with him, met him through work or as a fellow parent, anything at all, please take a moment to send a reflection to briandelaneymemorial@gmail.com
Pictures are also very much appreciated.
If you would like access to the email account to read the stories, please also let us know (we will also compile them and print hard copies later). He touched so many people and we are struggling to contact them all - please share this so we can reach as many of them as we can.
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California
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Jul 14, 2014 - 07:51am PT
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Terrible news...
My sincere condolences to family and friends.
~peace
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 14, 2014 - 08:07am PT
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Question: was there an assessment of what went wrong? the info might increase the safety of other rope soloists
So far no details have been published beyond the Conway Daily Sun account, which at first glance seems a model of good reporting -- the reporter talked with Brad White, one of the rescue group climbers.
Delaney had been climbing by himself, using a fixed line for a belay, according to White, climbing near a route called Double Vee, a classic route rated 5.9 on the Yosemite Decimal Scale. He was near the top of the wall he fell, White said, and something in his belay system failed.
"He obviously just leaned back and went the whole way," White said, but no one is sure exactly what in his belay system failed. Another group was nearby, but they didn't see anything until they heard Delaney's body hit the rocks at the base of the climb.
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The practice of climbing alone with a fixed line and a self-belay system is a common one, White said, not something particularly dangerous. "Lot's of people do it," he said, and it's generally safe. "I do it a lot."
But on Saturday something went wrong, and Delaney fell.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Jul 14, 2014 - 08:24am PT
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I had the pleasure if climbing with Brian. He was a joy to be around, always smiling and reafy for the next pitch.
Condolences to his family and loved ones.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jul 14, 2014 - 09:35am PT
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More terrible news...my condolences to the family and friends. RIP Brian.
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