Is your foot supposed to point in that direction?

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Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 3, 2014 - 11:29am PT
Last Sunday, June 29th, my partner had entered the blank section on the third pitch of El Whampo. A little demanding of some focus, especially for a 58 year old with a fused ankle. (I think between the two of us we might make a whole person.) After the safety of the second pitch crack, we were both a little surprised this isn't mentioned in the guidebook. The leader of a group behind us was sharing our belay station. He had just connected the first two pitches together w/ a 70M rope. Anyway, with my partner about 10 feet beyond his last piece, we hear a 3 second scream that made my hair stand up on end. A woman had peeled off the second pitch of El Grandote with her last piece popping and ending up in about 30 ft of sliding/bounding down the face. The guy setting up next to me had his partner on the ground describe what happened, then we all tried our cell phones to look for signal. Someone below had success and with 4 other people to help, my partner and I continued on. At the top of the fourth pitch, I was able to catch some of the action as the helicopter came in and dropped off someone to facilitate the rescue.





Apparently, she had a dislocated (and/or broken) ankle and was in good spirits when the helo arrived. I hope she is resting comfortably and heals fast.

johntp

Trad climber
socal
Jul 3, 2014 - 11:37am PT
with 4 other people to help, my partner and I continued on.

Really? I mean really?
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2014 - 11:39am PT
J TP yes. We ARE pretty slow.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2014 - 11:43am PT
Dave. My partner used those DMM peanuts in that seam. After I cleaned and saw how well they fit, when I got home I ordered a set.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jul 3, 2014 - 11:48am PT
The third pitch of El Whampo spooked me the first time I led it and for some reason spooked me even more the second time (even though I knew the seam was there that time ...)

That happens to me fairly often, Dave. Of course, on most climbs, if I've climbed the pitch before, leading it isn't that much of a problem. Sometimes, though, if I was gripped leading, that's all I remember. I guess it's related to getting back on the horse after a fall.

Back to the topic at hand, glad to hear she was in good spirits. Broken ankles -- ycch!

John
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 3, 2014 - 01:55pm PT
Photo of the foot point?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 3, 2014 - 02:18pm PT
Maybe it's obvious to most people, but I had to look it up.
These are climbs on the North Face of Tahquitz Rock.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Jul 3, 2014 - 03:18pm PT
Route finding on the second pitch of El Grandote is not obvious.
That's a really easy one to turn into 10+ with not really good pro.

Glad it didn't turn out worse.


with 4 other people to help, my partner and I continued on.

Really? I mean really?

Bailing after the 3rd pitch traverse with one rope isn't really a good option at all.

You really wouldn't be in a position to help from there and might subject the rescuers and injured party to more risk from knocking stuff down on them.
Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic
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