New 8 pitch route in the Potrero Chico...

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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic

Magic Ed

Trad climber

Nuevo Leon, Mexico

Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 17, 2014 - 03:39pm PT

It took two years but I finally finished my new route in the Potrero...

Also, how is climbing like boxing?

http://magicedspotrerochico.com/?p=4280

thewesleysummers

climber

Jun 17, 2014 - 03:43pm PT

Great job Ed! Heading there this fall, will definitely try it.

Studly

Trad climber

Jun 17, 2014 - 06:38pm PT

Looks magic Ed!

murcy

Gym climber

sanfrancisco

Jun 17, 2014 - 06:39pm PT

That looks really fun.

7SacredPools

Trad climber

Guelph, Ontario, Canada

Jun 17, 2014 - 06:42pm PT

Looks like a beauty of a route!

2 l l

Sport climber

Rancho Verga, CA

Jun 17, 2014 - 09:12pm PT

What's up with the unfilled drill hole(s) and unclipped bolts seen in the pictures?

Magic Ed

Trad climber

Nuevo Leon, Mexico

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2014 - 09:55pm PT

The unclipped bolts are either because a couple of the pitches have variations or because we climbed it with three climbers and not all the bolts were back clipped for the third person.

The other holes you see are where I shamelessly drilled a small hole for my cheater hook or an rb (removable bolt) in order to get past a blank section where I couldn't get a safe hook placement or to get around some of the jingus vegetation on the ascent which was all done solo, on lead, with a self belay.

At 65 I'm simply not strong enough to free climb and place the bolts while carrying all that weight (drill, hammer, bag of bolts, draws and slings, hooks and other misc gear, lead rope, static line to leave fixed etc.)

Yes, I could go back and fill the holes but this limestone is full of holes anyway and when you're free climbing the route you hardly notice them. What I am proud of is that I've never created a hold or glued any holds.