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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 10, 2014 - 06:35am PT
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I came to grief soloing on Temple Buttress which is in Arthur's Pass National Park, New Zealand.
The day dawned iffy with low cloud and mist sweeping Mt Temple. Out of sheer boredom I decided to have a "look" around the bottom of the buttress in the vague hope of salvaging something from a disappointing weekend.
When the mist cleared I decided to solo the right hand side of the main buttress. Although the rock was loose the climbing was straight forward, around 14/15 at the most. At about roughly 100ft the mist returned with a vengeance with visibility down to about 5 or 6ft. Deciding this was no longer much fun I traversed left to easier ground when all of a sudden my feet went from under me. It left me almost free hanging. I looked down just long enough to see where I might fall. Then my strength deserted me and I was forced to let go. I remember two landings, one as I bounced off the rock with the second fall ending on the ground at the base of the buttress. I reckon I fell about 70ft
For a few moments my head was swirling and being momentarily terrified I screamed out "help me", why I don't know for there was no one around. I stumbled about in the mist for a while not really knowing where I was. Then I decided to follow the river witch drained the basin. It was only when I attempted to use my right hand that I realized it was broken. It was bent in a pronounced "L" shape and virtually useless.
After what seemed liked an eternity I stumbled onto the main road and attempted to thumb a ride. By this time my right leg was so painful that I could barely use it. Anyway, some kind souls picked me up and I eventually ended up at Christchurch Hospital
It turned out that the only thing I broke was my wrist. The bruising was so severe however, that I was quite literally purple/black from the waist down.
The time was February 1988 and I gave up serious climbing, without a particle of regret. That was the biggest surprise of all.
However, since I've joined supertopo I've found the climbing instinct is still there, battered but perhaps salvageable. After all this time.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Jun 10, 2014 - 07:37am PT
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Yikes. Understandable to take a breather. Maybe go after it again, but make it a rule to stay on rope?
We cant eliminate all the risk, but we can mitigate some and manage it. How much is acceptable to you?
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jun 10, 2014 - 07:49am PT
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Wow Avery, congrats on your survival. And you're decision is completely understandable. Though the climbing itch always seems to return. Cheers to your recovery.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Jun 10, 2014 - 08:44am PT
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There can be a rewarding sense of creativity found in re-defining the sports we become proficient at as we find less available time, get injured or freaked, or just older.
There is nothing like climbing with old friends as a step into the time machine. Sometimes the near misses creep back when on the sharp end, but few things rival topping out after a fun climb.
You can always become better technically, just stop always using the ratings to determine your game. With all the miles of rock and snow you have logged, it's not like you are a beginner, rather just a beginner at the new game of re-shaping your climbing perspectives.
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John M
climber
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Jun 10, 2014 - 08:51am PT
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Hankster.. If you haven't figured it out yet, you have a wee bit different wiring then the average yokel. :-) One of the things that I admire about you Hankster is your willingness and desire to get back on the horse after its thrown you, dragged you through the briars, bitten you, kicked you and then gotten its buddies to tromp you. :-D
I don't think it was the broken wrist. It was the 70 feet of falling and the uncertainly that creates. Most peoples recognition of their mortality is a pretty powerful. That or not wanting to end up permanently broken. Thats why the story that Jody posted about Steve Muse was so inspiring. His body was permanently broken, but not his spirit. Way cool in my opinion and deserves respect.
When the spirit is broken, it can be hard to fix.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Jun 10, 2014 - 09:25am PT
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Cool TR Avery.
Shouldn't you get back after it now? Each day passes. You learned something from it.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jun 10, 2014 - 09:29am PT
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I dropped a bowling ball on my foot once. Never bowled again. The image is still fresh in my mind. The horror!
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couchmaster
climber
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Jun 10, 2014 - 09:35am PT
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I can live my my own stupid mistakes better than when others f*#k up. Pulled off 3 dead bodies in my career, and after you give up mouth to mouth while a ER Doc says "gone, forget it", and the loved ones are screaming and wailing in the background, or the pretty little thing with he skull caved in still hanging on the line and off the deck although her brains are scattered over the rock and blood is still draining, - that stuff stays in your mind for a quite a while. I don't think "that would never be me" as too many greats have passed on or had near misses (even in gyms for gods sake) for me to be that cocky.
Never bothered me enough to quit. Avery, bet most of the old timers here have similar stories. I was in Yos once and folks around the campfire (including moi) were all telling individual tales like yours. Good solid climbers.
Welcome back.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Jun 10, 2014 - 10:00am PT
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I spent my Sunday holding a 20 year old girl's hand until her heart stopped after we turned off her ventilator. She had fallen off the back of an ATV at 15 mph and hit her unhelmeted head on a rock and then herniated about 15 hours later.
Wear a bucket.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 10, 2014 - 10:22am PT
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Avery.... I am hesitant to post on to your topic, cause in a few days you might just delete it.
If your a climber, you climb because you must.
Getting broken up is something that will happen to you, someday.
You did a pretty stupid thing, free soloing on wet stone! Onsight????!!!!
Traversing onto more unknown ground.!!!!!
Just don't do anymore stupid things.
EASY.
Guy Keesee
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2014 - 04:12pm PT
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Thanks everybody for your kind thoughts. It's definitely more mental than physical for me. Bloody hell, some of you folks have been through the mill. I admire the collective will and tenacity on display here, and it's helped me out, no doubt about that.
I must apologize for deleting my last thread ("Why do you climb?") it was pure accident. I wanted to delete my opening message, you can guess the rest!
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Jun 10, 2014 - 06:14pm PT
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A year ago I watched my partner pull off a loose block on the 27th pitch of the Muir. The block severed his lead line and he fell 250' onto the static haul line. He was killed instantly, and within seconds I went from having the best time of my life to witnessing the most horrific experience I never imagined.
What does climbing mean after an experience like that?
Two days ago I watched my 16 year old launch off on the 2nd pitch of a local 5.10 sport route. He down rated it to 5.7, comparing it to the old school 5.10 climbs we had climbed at Joshua Tree two months earlier during Spring Break.
Climbing- the best of times, the worst of times...
I still keep climbing and I don't know why.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Jun 10, 2014 - 06:17pm PT
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Damn, son. That's horrendous. I'm really sorry.
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MH2
climber
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Jun 10, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
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Telemon's story shows the difference between mental versus physical injury. I am occasionally confronted with the thought of what might have happened to a partner of mine. If I came to see myself as causing the death or disablement of a climbing partner that could change my 47 years of fond memories into regret.
I remember a pediatric cardiologist, who used to boulder at UW rock, talking about climbing in the Cascades with his 14 year-old son. He said that if the son took a long fall and were killed he would probably jump after him rather than go back and face his wife. He was kidding, and he wasn't.
If Avery felt bad enough to stop climbing I would not second-guess him. He might just be smart.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 10, 2014 - 07:06pm PT
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Gotta say it Avery, you did a fine job of self rescue but after that the coping stopped. A twenty five year hiatus because of a broken wrist doesn't compute......welcome back!
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jun 10, 2014 - 07:18pm PT
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Damn Couch. them's some horrific stories...
I started climbing technical rock (OK, 5.2ish maybe) at 10 years in 1964 and am sort of still climbing today - cautiously that is. But in all my time outdoors, climbing, skiing, kayaking, et al, I've never been hurt enough to go to a hospital, nor has anyone in my party. Lucky no doubt, and overly cautious also. But its kept me going.... Don't know what I would do if someone was seriously hurt..... other than faint at the sight of blood.
Now my daughter is starting to climb (and I think ride a motorcycle - which she denies, but I've seen her leathers hiding in her closet - ha) and I'm terrified. Especially when she hangs out with gung-hoo noobs, or rock star wannabes. All I can say is my prayers have become more sincere...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 10, 2014 - 07:29pm PT
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Decrepit.....I'll settle for discreditable.
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Powder
Trad climber
the Flower Box
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Jun 10, 2014 - 07:42pm PT
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You'll feel it when you're ready; if not, then you're not.
Sometimes it's like a switch, all needed to be done is to have it turned on...
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crankster
Trad climber
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Jun 10, 2014 - 07:45pm PT
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Tough stuff. Climb when you're ready. If not, have fun with whatever.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2014 - 08:15pm PT
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I can really relate to your comments, telemon01.
I've never experienced anything like the razor sharp line that separates pure joy from chronic despair like climbing does.
Some times the line is so fine you don't realize your walking on it, until you step off.
All power to you, telemon01.
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