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kanouse
Trad climber
mt. holly, nj
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 25, 2014 - 05:30pm PT
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Looking for beta on NJ climbers who climbed in NJ in the 1940's, 1950 and the 1970's looking for beta on an cross checks to folks who may have climbed at Green Pond or Craigmier. Lastly seeking more info on the 10th mt division and its ties to the watchung ski club. reason is for a narrative on nj's climbing hx as a supplement / addendum to possibly enhancing access in NJ.
john anderson
westampton, nj
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 25, 2014 - 06:06pm PT
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wow, good luck and keep us up on what you learn...
don't have much more to add but what is in Tim Toula's Rock 'n' Road which I assume you looked at...
Pine Paddies
Yards Creek Reservoir
Mt. Tammany (Delaware Water Gap) Climbing 109
Buzzard Mountain (Allamuchy State Park)
Watchung Cliff Climbing 115
Princeton Boulders (Cradle Rock Boulder Field) Climbing 128
High Point State Park
Dinosaur Crag
Passaic Falls
Eagle Rock (N of Newark)
Green Pond & Craigmeur Ski Area (North West of it)
Jenny Jump State Forest
Mills Reservation
Muconetcong Gorge Nature Preserve
Buzzard's Butte
South Montain Reservation
Riegelsville Cliffs
Pyramid Mountain Park
Tourne County Park
I climbed back East from 1980 to 1995 and never once thought of New Jersey as a destination...
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kanouse
Trad climber
mt. holly, nj
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2014 - 06:18pm PT
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narrative is about done/ penultimate verison is being edited. where is dinosaur ledge ? nj will not become a "destination" based on proximty of the gunks. climbing in nj is trad climbing. cragging and tramping at its best. reference to a 1908 article in the NY times about a 14 yo having a leg broken while climbing at craigmeur. the bridge to the 10th mt division is of great interest.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 25, 2014 - 06:33pm PT
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Dinosaur Crag
A small 50' metamorphic crag with very limited activity to date [2003]. There is still some development potential here, but it requires extensive cleaning of lichen and loose rock. The crag was developed by the former mountain manager of Vernon Valley/Great Gorge ski area and some co-workers during 1994-96. The owners of the property are fully aware of the development of the crag and are supportive of climbing there. Summer. No camping. Private land.
Classics: By far the best climb here is Out There 5.10c, a face climb that ascends a semi-detached pillar. The cleanest piece of rock at this crag. Other routes of good quality include: Puke and Cry 5.10b, Freak Scene 5.10a and Green Mind 5.6.
Ref: E .Youmans
Directions: McAfee. Route 94 to Great Gorge Village Condominiums. Go through the security gate in front of "the Spa" and make a right immediately after going through the gate (tell the guard you're going to play golf). Follow this road until it ends at a gate. Park here and walk on the right (about 1,000' after you pass a large building on the right). Follow this road a short distance until you see the crags on the right.
from Rock 'n' Road 2nd edition, Tim Toula
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ruppell
climber
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May 25, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
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I climbed back East from 1980 to 1995 and never once thought of New Jersey as a destination...
LMAO. It's not a destination by any stretch.
I "learned" how to climb at the Gap. Loose rock, shitty gear, sandbagged ratings. Those where the days. After months of honing my skills physically and mentally, I ventured to the Gunks. The Gunks are way less heady then any climbs you'll find at the Gap. Solid rock, bomber pro. So, while NJ may not be a destination, there is no finer crag to learn on. And live to tell the tale. lol
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kanouse
Trad climber
mt. holly, nj
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2014 - 07:51pm PT
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gap is unique. hugh doher (spelling) the NPS ranger did the guide-book from back then. learning to climb at the gap be a robust way of staying on the sharp-end. any beta on climbing at the gap pre-1970 ?
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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May 25, 2014 - 07:53pm PT
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....
One time, Vinny and I jacked this couple of all their goods and had to climb over a bunch of fences to elude the police...
Considered it my high point in my climbing career until I got to Yosemite... Where I really found my stride and came into my own on the climbing scene... Unfortunately, my stride took to the depths of mediocrity...
Nothing worth mentioning here... but something for the NJ history books
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kanouse
Trad climber
mt. holly, nj
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2014 - 07:54pm PT
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climbing in jersey, just have to know where to go...green pond mountain
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