Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 18, 2014 - 06:03pm PT
|
Do you think it matters which knee you have in the crack with a hand fist stack? It just seems like I get a little more leg camming action if I go left fist and right knee, or right fist left knee. Hopefully this makes sense. Anybody else notice any difference, or should I just go back to being one of the couch bound demographic(I won't go back anyway). Don't worry, I'm not thin skinned ;)
Chris
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2014 - 06:26pm PT
|
size matters in offwidth, and you are not symmetric in either size or strength...
so it's possible that you'll find one combination of jams better in some cracks than in others.
In general, I've found that if you can park your center-of-mass along the plumb line you aren't using muscles to keep it off the plumb line, which uses less energy (which is an important consideration). This is easier to do if you use diagonal appendages, left hand, right foot, etc...
|
|
BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2014 - 06:30pm PT
|
Whoa. You will use every combination of stacks, wings, pivots, and other jive to do offwidths.
You ought to look up the Wyde Boys video on Youtube. It is awesome.
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2014 - 06:31pm PT
|
Best advice I can think of would be to have been born no later than 1965, if that's not possible become a pretty little blonde girl.
If neither of these work then just layback that sh#t.
I did see a leavitation vid by the man himself on YouTube awhile back, I'll have a look for it.
|
|
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 06:55pm PT
|
That makes sense Ed, thanks. Lets just say that I am at that age where I'm hoping to use more technique as opposed to just muscle. Energy conservation is part of the equation. I think using hand stacks where possible uses less energy (when done right) than arm bars and other strenuous techniques. Hey, it's OW ... sometime the right technique for me will be flailing. But I'd like to keep that to the minimum.
|
|
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2014 - 09:49am PT
|
No worries Ryan, your first response was pretty funny. Thanks for posting the Levitation video! He's using that technique on Mother Superior at Woodson, one of the things that led me to this post. THe guy who originally sent that thing used arm bars. I've found an easier OW at Woodson to just work on technique and hopefuly dial it in (lmao).
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2014 - 10:47am PT
|
Generally easier to use stacks in a calf lock situation Han armbars. Because the calf lock holds you out from the making it easier to stack than to try to dig in deeper for an Armbar
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2014 - 11:15am PT
|
I almost always find that when using wrists-crossed stacks, the fist is the opposite hand of the leg/knee that's in.
So with a left knee in, I'd be right fist (with thumb against the left side crack wall) crossed over a left hand (with palm against the right side crack wall).
If the crack leans enough, that may change. If my arms/hands aren't in a crossed stack that may not be the case. Corners or cracks with offsets will usually have you set up this way with crossed stacks. Pure splitters and ones you can't get a knee into may not.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!