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Epic Magruff the bounty hunter
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 24, 2014 - 02:25am PT
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This crack is very convenient, I would like to thank the first accentionist for placing these bolts. thank you
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enjoimx
Trad climber
SLO
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Mar 24, 2014 - 02:28am PT
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O.R.G.asam
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Mar 24, 2014 - 02:28am PT
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Double Cross is another Excellent Bolted Crack. . .
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Epic Magruff the bounty hunter
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 02:33am PT
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The perma draws on the lower half of the route are genius. It makes it so much easier to clean the route, this route is futuristic.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
SLO
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Mar 24, 2014 - 02:40am PT
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cant tell if you are trolling but there really are some cool bolted cracks in CA. Whether they should be bolted or not is a different topic.
Cookie Monster
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Mar 24, 2014 - 08:36am PT
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^ if you consider yourself a straight male and see the bolts before the cleavage, you seriously need to reevaluate your priorities.
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MikeL
Trad climber
SANTA CLARA, CA
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Mar 24, 2014 - 09:58am PT
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Why?
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OR
Trad climber
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Mar 24, 2014 - 10:13am PT
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Trollicious
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go1dens4
Trad climber
Melbourne, FL
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Mar 24, 2014 - 10:46am PT
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I am in favor of chopping all bolts from cracks...
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Mar 24, 2014 - 11:03am PT
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Chapel Wall or Public Sanitation.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Mar 24, 2014 - 11:13am PT
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That crack doesn't exactly look "natural" either
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 24, 2014 - 12:45pm PT
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Hardley Wallbanger and Whacked Scenario at ORG!
SUPER FUN.
One is thin other one is wide.
From MP
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Bad Climber
climber
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Mar 24, 2014 - 12:46pm PT
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Yeah, looks like a quarry.
BAd
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Mar 24, 2014 - 12:52pm PT
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Final Cut at Public Sanitation Wall, Wheat Thin Cookie Cliff, Ginsu Flake at Hidden Wall Cal Domes to name a few.
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Epic Magruff the bounty hunter
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 01:06pm PT
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For some reason this crack isn't that deep, but it sure is fun.
Even though it has perma draws its still plenty spicy. Check out that runout between the second and third draws! Im still trying to pink point this route.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 24, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
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A troll thread perhaps, but an interesting issue that is going to become more common as the trend appears to be that many new climbers have no aptitude or respect for a trad ethic.
There are certain climbs (like Wheat Thin) where it appears that bolts are necessary to adequately protect it. Things like Cookie Monster (haven't done it) I guess the line gets thinner: can get gear but hard to see, hard to place, etc. I'll let others debate the ultimate question of whether it was just bolted for the masses.
Other places like the Gorge, I've heard claims that the rock is weird and cams tend to pop out, etc., hence the need for bolts. Maybe. I always got the sense that the cracks there were bolted mostly out of convenience, that sport climbers wouldn't want to bring their racks and the like. Some climbs have crack moves but limited gear options. OK. Others, like the one posted by Vitaliy, I don't really see it.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Mar 24, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
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"Trollicious"
Still, an interesting topic...and some great pics here, too.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Mar 24, 2014 - 02:06pm PT
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Even though it has perma draws its still plenty spicy. Check out that runout between the second and third draws!
WARNING! Do not repeat any routes put up on the Glacier Point Apron in the 60s/70s/80s/90s.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 24, 2014 - 02:27pm PT
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Fat Dad, the gorge is a sport climbing area, and when I go climb there I do not want to think about bringing a rack or anything more than some draws and a rope. I think it is really wise they bolted those cracks, even if FA was done on gear, like it was with Hardly Wallbanger and many more.
Another good bolted crack is pitch 6 of Astroman. Big fat bolt next to a hand size crack, lol. Those FAists had no ethics!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 24, 2014 - 02:51pm PT
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Gotta add Gangsta Lean at ORG to the list of good n bolted cracks.
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