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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 7, 2014 - 08:05pm PT
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Sorry for the rant, but I noticed Metolius cams are complete garbage. Aside from their offsets cams they are garbage. At least ones that I have. This weekend I lost my 2nd (!) green mastercam (#6). Why? Not because it walked and got stuck, not because someone dropped it, not because I took a fall and got it fixed. All I had to do is press the trigger to take it out and both of the cables snapped!!! What the hell? How does it happen? I wasn't even yanking it and it wasn't a tough placement to get out (I placed it on lead and was cleaning on rappell). Snapped at first contact. Tried to get it out but it got further stuck. It is on Sherrie's crack if anyone wants to see.
I also have a yellow metolious Master cam and yellow (#2) metolious TCU. BOTH of them had a problem where lobes on one side were stuck and not functioning at all. After soaking both in lubricant for a night one resumed working. The other is still shut.
I don't think there are many stories like my first, but do other people out there notice that they tend to lose their mastercams quicker vs BDs?
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TREED
Trad climber
Gunks
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Dibbs!
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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very interesting Vitaliy. I have recently fattened out my rack to full BD cams and was thinking of going with Metolius next. In fact, I also happened to nearly fix a big one (sage BD) in a too-small placement the other day. I jacked those cables HARD and fought the thing out. No problemo for the cables or other parts of the cam. I have also worked pretty hard on many or most of my other BDs with zero trigger cable problems, or breakage more generally.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2014 - 08:13pm PT
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Cables shouldn't break. I think it is a freak accident. But I have too many metolious cams that have problems. This last one was just ridiculous.
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Good to know, I've been debating master cams vs aliens for awhile now.
Crap, hope someone get's V.'s cam out. I (or my partner) fixed three cams on three popular climbs in the Valley & always feel bad about leaving garbage on routes.
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Matt's
climber
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"I wasn't even yanking it"
yeah, i'm sure vitaly
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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I have many small METOLIUS cams on my rack and love them. Grey, Purple, Blue, Yellow, Orange and Red. Never had a cable break and no other problems. Probably got them over 10 years ago. Maybe they have changed but the old ones were the bomb.
I see your problem, you got the cheap Chinese knockoffs spelled METOLIOUS.
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WBraun
climber
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Stupid cams
Why even both placing them,
just run it out ......
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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wow, that sucks man... I LOVE me metolious cams though... the only ones I dont like are the TCUs and the black and green master cams... the other small master cams are golden though!!!
switch to totem cams bro... they are THE BEST for aid/free/gym hehe :)
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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I just got a bunch of Mastercams and really like them. Too bad you are having some troubles with yours, but the dudes at Metolius are top notch and most likley will take good care of you if there is a problem.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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"I think it is a freak accident. "
Yeah, that pretty much sums up my impression, too. I've always found Metolius to be pretty damn good gear...certainly better than BD sh#t.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Metolius cams indeed do suck to a certain degree. Besides the small expansion range and ridiculously hard aluminum that doesn't bight into sh#t. I too and many others I know have had various problems from lobes sticking due to the extremely tight tolerances between lobes, tendency to want to get stuck in every irregular placement or walk it's way back at even the slightest movement and the cheap ass way homo string (read "lace") the new mastercams have, which is hard to impossible to replace. Other than all that... they get the job done.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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That's funny. I replace trigger cables all the time on BDs, Aliens, and sometimes even my old HB Quadcams - and I never replace trigger cables on my Metolius cams (mostly TCUs). Must have been a bad batch or something.
That upper crack on Sherrie's Crack used to have a green Metolius stuck there for years & years. Think it's just the wrong size crack for getting that cam stuck, sort of like the top of Moby Dick center and old #4 Camalots.
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bigbird
climber
WA
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Vitaliy have you talked to Metolious customer service? They are generally big on safety, at the very least you can make them aware of the issue you experienced.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Over the years I've had far more problems with wires on BD cams than on Metolius, but most of mine are at least several years old, so I don't know what the quality is like on either manufacturer's newer cams.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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enter "BD", "China", "C4s", "Peter Metcalf", and "Sabretooth crampons" in …
three,
two,
one,
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Maybe you shouldn't use them to scrub the terminals on your car battery.
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Cool story bro, but I'm pretty sure I've had trigger wires on many brands of cams break. I like my purple and orange master cams. Metolius cams and all their other gear is NOT s#!t
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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black mastercam is my favorite.
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