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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
schase1967
Mountain climber
Ohio
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 11, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
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I am wondering how people rack daisy chains and aiders when not actually in use?
Do most people just clip the ends behind them and let the slack hang?
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Dec 11, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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Yeah and hook the bottom ladder or loop to shorten it.
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AlanDoak
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Dec 11, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
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When I was a noob, I used to drop my daisy/aider after each move and let it hang. They would get jammed in cracks, snagged on pitons, and more than once I watched as the aider floated away (not sure how).
Now, I clip my aider/daisy into the little loop on top of the shoulder of my chest gear harness after every move and then flip the aider over my shoulder. It's out of the way, won't snag on anything, and it's in a handy spot when I'm ready to clip the next piece.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
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Dec 11, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
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Learn to aid climb without daisies IMO
I'll clip my daisy in to my aider on a sketcky placement, but for cruising c1 c2 I think it's much faster to not use daisies, but that's just a personal preference.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Dec 11, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
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+1 for not connecting aiders to daisies.
Prod.
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Dec 11, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
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How do you not lose your aider and gear if it rips while your standing on them without a daisy?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
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Dec 11, 2013 - 05:34pm PT
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You hold onto it while you bounce test it
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Prod
Trad climber
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Dec 11, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
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Hi Pie,
I use daisies for my placements, and clip the aiders into the piece below the daisy. It keeps the clutter down.
I learned this method via Fishproducts.com
http://www.fishproducts.com/howto/how_to.html
"MOVING WITHIN THE SYSTEM:
Here is where it all begins. Hopefully you have a good base in free climbing to help you out with the basics of movement on rock. A basic scenario would go like this:
The leader prepares to lead the pitch. With him/her is the following stuff: the lead line, the zip or haul line, a substantial and adequate rack, his/her personal Jumars, the pulley device, a hammer if needed, and perhaps a pint of water if the pitch is going to take a long time.
Leader checks to see that he is on belay and starts either freeclimbing or looking for the first nut placement. If free climbing just continue on and place pro as needed, hanging if necessary (holster your pride and go for the summit, not some ego crap that might jeopardise your chances) and watching for the next belay. If the leader is aiding the pitch, use your daisy chain to attach yourself to the high nut before placing it. This method is twofold: dropped gear will not be lost and if the piece you are standing on blows, the pro on your daisy might catch you before a real ripper sets in. So, with the high nut in, clip in your aiders and adjust so they are against the wall. Step into the lowest rung of the aiders and start to apply weight. If nothing happens, start bouncing a little and then a lot on the piece to test it. Ok, it's holding. Now climb up the aider to the second step and clip in short to your waist. I use a small runner or quickdraw for this first clip at my waist. I now release my daisy chain from the piece and just drop it so it can hang out of the way. Get adjusted in the aiders and then clip in close, a single biner away from your harness. Relax and start looking for the next piece. Pick the next piece and attach it to your long daisy. Place it as high as you can and give it a jerk or two to make sure it is set. Clip your second pair of aiders directly into the piece under your daisy so they lay flat on the wall. Clip the lead line into the piece you are standing on. Repeat the above, releasing your waist clip in as you go, and at about half way up your aiders, grab the set you were standing on on and clip them to your harness or gear sling. Repeat this about 35 times and the pitch is in the bag."
Cheers,
Prod.
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Dec 11, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
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alandoak:
I still drop my aiders after some moves :( I guess I am still a aid noob, damn!!
when I rack my yates wall ladders I clip the top to bottem then the middle. to rack my daisys I clip in middle and put in back gear loop!!
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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