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Alexa
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 1, 2003 - 02:03pm PT
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Hi, I'm looking for any extra info on this route that might be of help. We're planning on doing it in September. Is the hike as bad as the topo claims? Looks like there is only 1 pitch of 5.10 on the route, so does it climb like a long 5.9? Anything specific to watch out for?
Thanks a bunch!
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bcraft
Trad climber
southern ca
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This hike is fairly easy with the exception of figuring out how to cross the creek without getting wet. We did the approach to the creek crossing on bikes. As for beta, I think the supertopo gives it all!
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dave
climber
Oceanside
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Cross the creek early! Once you see little slide cannyon start aiming, cross country, to the near side of the canyon about a hundred yards or less from the mouth of the canyon. It is relatively easy to cross, not much muck muck! If you have gotten to the Wilderness boundary sign than you've missed the hassle free crossing. If you made the early crossing, congrats! You'll then contour along the bank till it is possible to scramble up a short bench (15-20 ft.) hopefully you'll find a faint climbers trail that will lead you up into the canyon, be sure to stay high on the left canyon side as you proceed, if not you'll get back down in some more yucky's on the canyon floor.
Good luck!
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ian manger
climber
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I was out there a few weeks back. Things that I would note are, yes, if you have reached the sign you are too far west. We went even further west and crossed the creek really easily at some fallen logs, but this puts you way too far west of the trail and you have to backtrack a good distance (~200yds). It is critical that you end up on the east side of the creek running out of Little Slide before it runs into Robinson. If you start heading up on the west side of this creek you are pretty much screwed. Been there, done that. And yes, there are faint (presumably lost) climber trails everywhere, so beware. The main trail is actually OK, once you find it.
The trail up Little Slide is v.steep. It may be easy for Ben and Chris because they are fit young dudes but this is a High Sierra backcountry route with a base at 10000ft so be prepared to suck a lot of wind. My partner and I are both 40ish and are wistful for the days when we could scamper talus with the young'uns. We were so slow that we got out there too late to get on the climb, neither of us felt much like it after the approach.
OK, now my main beef is with the beaver pond. Having f*#ked up the approach, we were in no position to reverse it (ST beta). So we spent a f*#king hour in that sucker, cussing and bodysurfing aspen. It was kind of amusing after a while. After a long while. There were a ton of odd footprints so we weren't the only ones. It is an ugly mess. Stay out unless you want to spend an hour up to your ankles in slime..doing that sh#t in the dark must be a blast.
Stay together in the descent gully. It is a bowling alley.
Oh, and have fun....
ian
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Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
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yo. did the hulk last month.
Ian, the footsteps you saw may have been ours in the muck muck. I was so disgusted/frustrated/insane I couldn't help but laugh out loud. A thought- C Mac, if you are going back next week, how about some cairnage leading to the best spot to cross. Other than that crossing, the climb was great. And while your'e at it, how about hauling in your trusty chainsaw; cut down a tree and make a might fine bridge crossing...?
I agree, best granite I have seen in the area. The whole valley just blows my mind!! I want to keep returning and climb every tower on the west side- they look incredible; truly mouth-watering.
Anyhoo, as far as route beta goes ; it's pretty straight forward. The dihedral is plenty fun and sustained(send your strongest up the crux pitch). The upper section is cruiser. I found many of the 9 bits to be quite easy(7 or 8-ish).
My pal and I did the dihedral in a set of spiderman suits. Yes, that's right- in lycra and superpowers. Then, "Positive Vibrations", which was a much different animal than RD all together. But know this; The Hulk ain't got nothing on Spidey!!
PF
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Alexa
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2003 - 04:43pm PT
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thanks for all the info. It sounds like someone would do a world of good if they made some cairnage leading to the best spot to cross!
Thanks - Alexa
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Hey, if you like incredibly loose rotten rock in one of the most wild positions imaginable, give Regge Pole East Face Dihedrals a look. If you do, take double ropes and triple-length runners as well as pro to 2 #4 Big Bros. Such a climb!
Or, if the route you want is crowded, think about doing Twin Cracks on the East Face of the Turret. At 5.9+ it's one of the sweetest climbs in the area.
Brutus
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Alexa
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2003 - 03:37pm PT
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one more question. can we get away with leaving the approach shoes at the base or is it recommended to carry them on the climb? From the Supertopo description it looks like you have to contour back to the base anyway.
Alexa
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