Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
|
Always a few folks in over their head when this many gather. It's not easy to find folks who are solid in this environment. Unfortunately the incompetant can make a mess for the rest. K2 via the Abruzi is not really a proper objective for the serious mountaineer. It's getting to be too much of a trade route.. one with little margin for the weak but inundated with them.
This movie ..hmm guess I will watch it.. but I'm sure it will pull punches in order not to offend.
|
|
JerryA
Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
|
If you have read the books about the 2008 K2 climbing disaster ,"The Summit" (2012) is well worth seeing .While for obvious reasons it does not come close telling the whole story , the interviews with Alberto Zerain,Pemba Gaylje Sherpa, & Chhiring Dorje Sherpa are very interesting. The sad sight of a large group of western & asian climbers waiting for hours at extreme altitude for Sherpas to build them a rope route is more than ironic .Nobody learned anything from "Into Thin Air"
|
|
labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
|
"K2 via the Abruzi is not really a proper objective for the serious mountaineer. It's getting to be too much of a trade route.. one with little margin for the weak but inundated with them."
Seriously? I understand if this comment is made about Everest. I don't believe it for K2. Not from what I've read, nor what I've been told by my instructors who have been on K2, and is it not supported by statistics. The numbers are staggering. Nearly 1 in 4 (25%)of people who have attempted the mountain are dead.
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
|
By trade route I mean multiple groups of mixed levels of competency from idiots to exceptional all waiting at high camp for summit day.
Not saying it's easy or safe.
|
|
labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
|
How about "Abruzi is not really a proper objective for the serious mountaineer" ?
Is this truly what most serious mountaineers believe or just what you believe? When I talked with people and listened to discussions and lectures in the past (nearly ten years ago) my impression was that K2 by any route and anything less than laying siege with a big expedition would be met with great respect. I ask this question with respect because I know you have experience guiding....
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2013 - 07:51pm PT
|
Watch this. You WILL enjoy it and perhaps understand what is just my opinion. Clearly Warner is a "serious mountaineer". He certainly felt it was a worthy objective for him. To each their own of course.. lot of meat to chew on this lecture/trip report if one isn't familiar with the common and basically predictable but still bizarre drama's that unfold every season on big mountain trade routes. Routes like this on the famous peaks attract way too many incompetent glory seekers. The kind of folks I would pay to avoid.
Chris Warner lecture.. quite excellent.
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=k2+mountain+climb+lecture+chris+warner&FORM=HDRSC3#view=detail&mid=3CBC1B6A0FD89D782C403CBC1B6A0FD89D782C40
|
|
| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!