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hubes
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 19, 2006 - 07:55am PT
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Coming from UK in August mainly to climb in Tuolumne but also Lovers Leap and do Snake Dike
Some questions hopefully people can answer
1- Can you book the lovers leap camp site, or is it first come first served? If it is first come first served do we stand any chance of finding a pitch arriving on a Saturday afternoon? Also is it free?
2- While in lovers Leap we want to also mountain bike the flume trail – so any recommendations where to rent decent bikes, helmets etc and would we be able to rent shoes for spds
3- We are camping in Tuolumne mostly and want to do Snake Dyke is it possible to do it in one day from Tuolumne or should we move down to Camp Four or can we bivy at the bottom of the climb. Also can you get water on route to the climb.
Thanks in advance
A tourist
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tinker b
climber
your local park
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Jul 19, 2006 - 01:32pm PT
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the approach for snake dyke from toulumne is probably about 12 miles to the base and 11 miles back from the tenaya lake trail head via clouds rest (which is brilliant). from the valley it is about 6 up and 8 down via the mist trail, which is also pretty cool, but super crowded and has a great deal of elevation gain and loss. i don't have a clue about lovers leap.
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waddell
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jul 19, 2006 - 05:59pm PT
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The leap:
Camping is Free
Sunday-Thursday no problem getting a site Friday-Saturday will be a crap shoot. I have had the most luck showing up between 8am-11am to grab one on the weekends.
Snake Dike:
I would suggest coming in from the valley there are a number of possibilities that I would be more than willing to share with you via email.
you can find water at a number of places along the approach if you have a water pump but there is no water at the base of the climb
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hubes
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2006 - 10:47am PT
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Thanks both
so if the Leap camp site is full on the Saturday is there anywhere else near by to camp?
Waddel thanks for the offer of email, will take it up
Cheers
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full stottie
Trad climber
North East UK
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Jul 20, 2006 - 12:29pm PT
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Recently returned from a trip to the valley. Approached Snake Dyke via mist trail - true what other poster says about crowds and heavy uphills. Route west off trail not obvious, but opens up eventually.
Bivvied at foot of Snake Dike as campsites were all booked up in advance - we needed a wilderness camping permit, as you are just outside an invisible purple line on the Park Service map.
Plenty of good bivvy sites, remnants of fire pits and spare wood show the spots. We found a good site next to a large boulder some 100 yds south west of the foot of the climb.
No bears visited us, but plenty rattlers on the approach slabs. Don't underestimate the runouts or the wind. It was freezing in last week of May.
Have a good one!
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hubes
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2006 - 08:48am PT
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Thanks for that, if you were to give Snake Dike a UK grade what would you reckon it would be?
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waddell
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jul 21, 2006 - 10:44am PT
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Im not sure about UK grades but heres some comon info for you:
the crux of the climb is the approach its a long day.
the hardest move is maybe 5.7 and it is just that one move protected by a bolt.
the rest of the route is runout most the way but very easy climbing 5.5 at most.
each belay has great bolts.
to give you an example I took a couple of good friends up Snake Dike a few years back one had only ever done a little bit of TR and the other had let a couple of easy sport routes. I led most of the pitches with the sport route guy leading a couple in between. They both agreed later that afternoon that Snake Dike was one of the more amazing things they had done and the hardest part about it was the length of the hiking.
If you are comfortable climbing 5.8 face and are in good hiking shape you will do fine on the route and love the experience.
again if you want some more beta on the approach ect. email me the first time i climbed the route I got lost for a couple of hours if you know what to look for it will save you a ton of time.
Have fun.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Jul 21, 2006 - 11:55am PT
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UK rating is "PDF", Pretty Darn Fun.Wear very comfortable shoes and tape up any hotspots on your feet, so you don't screw the rest of the holiday. The snakes should be a little less at that time of year because it's so darn hot, there trying to keep a low profile under rocks and such during the day. The bears will be in full swing and you will want to get a bear proof food container, free or rent from the valley.
If the Leap camp ground is full, camp at the mile tract # 41( I think it's number 41) just west of the Leap down highway 50, or you can easily camp at the spires. The spires are fun to climb in the summer because you can follow the shade easily.
I don't know where to rent biking stuff at Tahoe but I know there are places. The flume trail IMHO is a little over rated, cool veiws but the ride isn't as memorable as some guides suggest. But then again I grew up hiking the Snow Valley Peak, Marlett Gig. I have heard ( haven't done it yet) "Mr. Toads wild ride" is the Shite. Most bike stores in South Lake Tahoe should be able to give you the beta on that.
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full stottie
Trad climber
North East UK
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Jul 21, 2006 - 05:13pm PT
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UK tech grade 4a/4b only. After doing some long and harder valley routes its the approach more than the climb, provided not windy. It snowed on us!
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