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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 27, 2013 - 06:17pm PT
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Good question, it's vertical...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 27, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
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I watched Nico Favresse work it a year or so before Sonnie Trotter finally got it. I think I've posted pictures somewhere -- maybe Big Mike's Squamish thread? Nico could do all the moves, on lead, but couldn't put it together bottom-to-top no falls on that trip. What was really amazing was that he made it look almost effortless. Yeah, he'd do a couple of moves, then fall, but there was no screaming and grunting and flailing. Obviously it wasn't effortless, and I'm sure it was just as painful for him as it's been for everyone else, but he is a very, very smooth climber.
And one thing the wideboyz say in that little interview is really weird. They talk about the beautiful rock etc etc, but then say how cool it was that Cobra Crack is all by itself, with no other routes nearby. Last time I was at the Cirque of the Uncrackables there were a dozen or so routes. Maybe they meant it was cool that there weren't routes every three feet, but it's not like Cobra Crack is the only route on the crag.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 27, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
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I'll be the first to say it: I don't think they can do JCA's Wide World of Sports.
;-)
I'll be sorry I said that, right? But really, I do wonder. Poor guys, there is a world full of hard local problems, and they just will not be able to climb them all, no matter how easy or difficult it would be for them.
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maxdacat
Trad climber
Sydney, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
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"JCA's Wide World of Sports"
Great route name....i'm intrigued.
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MH2
climber
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Sep 27, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
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Walked under it twice yesterday. Glad they said it was only similar to normal climbing, not the real thing.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Sep 27, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
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long way from chikn wings to power tips.
but it made me feel better about myself to learn hear that tom is still projecting that 6c crack on the sheep.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 27, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
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Here are a couple of shots of Nico going for it in 2005.
This is the overhanging stem start. Easy. Probably only 5.12
Apologies for the poor photo quality, but I was belaying a friend on Boogie Till You Puke. You can get a bit of a feel for what's involved in climbing Cobra Crack though -- overhanging tips with nothing much for feet. No rests, and _seriously_ painful jams. This part is probably only 5.13, so he didn't bother placing much pro.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 27, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
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Looks beautiful! Stemming And thin! Cool stuff!
Um, I don't know that I'd go that far, Darwin....
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 27, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
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What is that monkey doing in the tree ?
Filming. Rapped in from somewhere up above, set up with a leash to the tree, and filmed the event.
And for whatever it's worth, Nico is a really nice guy. Quiet, friendly, and humble. And an amazing climber.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 27, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
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hey Tami what about The Scimitar Right Side? where the hell does it go?
there's some mossy flakes over right of the Scimitar and left of Cobra but they sure as hell look improbable for 10b?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 28, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
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It's to the right of the OW somewhere, listed in the guidebooks all the way back to Campbell as a 10b put up by you and Peter in 81, at the right side of the bay that has Scimitar on the left side? No?
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Sep 28, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
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This? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McHosr_98r0
Edit: Clint and Jaybro: Confused as to who did the FA of Wild World of Sports. Jaybro or JCA? Jaybro, how are you doing out there? Miss talking to you at random (last time at the Priest Grade Cafe)times.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 28, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
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Tony,
Confused as to who did the FA of Wild World of Sports. Jaybro or JCA? Jaybro = JCA (same person)
And the route name is:
JCA's Wide World of Sports.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 28, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
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What Clint said
Jaybro = Jay = John Carl Anderson = JCA
Wstrmclmer- Tony, long time! Though it was only a little over a year ago we last talked overlooking the old priest's grade! Otherwise mostly in the meadows, I think. I love it here! More climbing than can be imagined! Come out and I'll prove it! Hope Bolinas is treating you well!
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Sep 28, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
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You think I would have picked up on the name.......Moving to Oakland but would love to come out and see your area! But in the meantime I hope to ge Clint to belay me on some stuff this winter. Awesome on the FA Jay!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 28, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
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So who's dunnit. The cobra that is. Lets stick to the script here ya wyde freeks.
Here's what I got.
Sonny
Will S
Yuji
Nico Favresse
The wideboyz
I think Ethan pringle
I know tommy Caldwell tried it but think he may have walked away
Luke Cormier
Honnold
Miss anyone? I feel like there's a few more ...
Anyways second page & no vid of the FA?!?!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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