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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 9, 2013 - 04:17am PT
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Anyone been on this recently?
Ksolem has done the first 4 in recent times. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=617883&msg=618468#msg618468
This route seems to get high marks, except for the flattened hangers.
Replacing the hangers and doing some climbing on this thing sounds worthy, if rumor, hearsay, half sentences and down right lies are to be believed.
September and October is Kings month, just saying.
Anyone have pics of it?
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Haven't been there but on the way east look to the right and check out Zumalt Crack rt out of the meadow. Need some wide stuff on first pitch which crab and I found out on our failed attempt.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
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Roger that. Zumwalt is a draw for sure.
The very sparse info on this one makes me super curious.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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I was up there this weekend and walked out to look for it. I found the red streak and general area but didn't look for bolts or anything, so I guess I'm not much help.
The guide says low angle and it was even lower angle than I was expecting, but it looked like really clean rock.
Slab slab yum yum!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
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oh seriously? Dayum! Getting after it.
Pretty much is the season for the Kings if the crab is on the case!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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The slab is a huge feature with an apron of talus at the base. In the scale of the canyon it's one of those things where you walk along but it never seems to get closer despite it's size.
I did the first four with Guyzo probably late 80s. At the top of P4 the angle kicked back and the bolts we could see were flattened. It looked like we had done the crux pitches, we did not have a bolt kit, and we knew we had usable rap anchors to get down from where we were. Higher up, who knows?
We didn't get shut down by the climbing which was pretty stellar if you like that sort of thing. I was just sick of feeling like like a good lead fall would rip all the bolts, and if we kept going up we could easily be stranded with no way off.
The last thing I wanted to do was get up higher and not have an anchor. Take a bolt kit. Also I used some small and medium cams in features between bolts.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Munge... it's so low angle, you can't believe that your holding on at a 5.10D level .....
The thing is huge, walk up close enuf to see the bolts, looks a lot different.
Bring wired stoppers, so you can "clip" the bolts.
I want to find a climb known as "Tower of Dapnine" ... its in the KK book and is listed as "F7" .... 1,000 foot long x 3 feet wide arete on "perfict golden granite" ....
Any Tacos know about that one??????
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
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cool, thx Kris
Let me check with one of the locals that lived there the last few years.
I gotta believe someone has been on it since the 80s with the few obscure references in the SEKI guide, and your posts Kris, about the quality of the rock.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
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guyman, that sounds like something out of legend! dig it!
I'm getting pretty stoked on going in.
Seems like we might have some interested parties.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Any Tacos know about that one??????
The Tower of Delphina is actually one of the towers on the south face of Mt. Bago. I've been up there but am not sure which tower it is. I didn't notice one being extra orange or an obvious giant dihedral on the south face like the KC guide and Secor book say. If I had to guess I was thinking it was the middle on the first pic and on the right in the second pic.
Contributing to thread drift, but at least it's drifting towards a 1,000 ft "amazing" route?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Bring wired stoppers, so you can "clip" the bolts.
I kind of remember threading some of those flattened hangers with thin flat webbing too.
And clipping that with air voyagers.
Nooo.. I must be dreaming. That would be nuts!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2013 - 07:12pm PT
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lol!
This thread needs more drift and mystery!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Limping.... thanx for that info...
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Greg Barnes
climber
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So Kris, 1/4" bolts? Or 5/16" (don't see a date in the guide to help guess)? What type of hangers were flattened?
I'd guess Petzl hangers might hold up best to icefall due to a lower profile (maybe), but I've seen various hangers including modern ones bent by icefall, my guess is nothing is going to hold up well. Especially since I think a fair bit of hanger bending/bolt breakage is due to the hanger being frozen into ice which then breaks off.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2013 - 01:38am PT
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Just looked at picture of the slab and I think it might also be a rock fall zone in the spring run off. It is a water streak after all.
Is there some reason you guys think it was snow/ice?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 10, 2013 - 10:06am PT
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Is there some reason you guys think it was snow/ice?
Non the kind of scarring or direct damage to the hangers you see from a lot of rockfall, and while the base is a pile of talus, it is not all fresh looking if you know what I mean.
Greg, 1/4" bolts with various (some SMC?) hangers..
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Sep 10, 2013 - 11:37am PT
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I've found that when you see most hangers bent/flattened on a route, it's usually ice related. Rockfall tends to smash/take out a few hangers. Of course there will be a lot of factors and a continuum from snow avalanche to ice to small rocks to big rocks...it's actually kind of amazing more 1/4" bolts weren't naturally erased!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 10, 2013 - 11:39am PT
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I recall the bolts are bent over, like it was done with a bending machine.... no smack marks.
When you look up the route, one feels like a bowling pin just sitting there
right where all the rocks, snow and avalanche debrits come down.... oh yea the stone has grit and pine needles on it in spots.
But I think that is a winter/spring thing- the falling stuff .... I do not recall anything dropping down on us all day.
But the place is weird and the climb is much bigger than it looks from the road.
Go for it,bring your "A" game, take photos... have fun.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 10, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
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As I thought, it's not really that low angle 'till you get up high. And like Guy says, it does feel like a bowling alley...
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Sep 10, 2013 - 05:40pm PT
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Munge if you're ever in SEKI and need a partner let me know. And if you put in the work to fix any bolts I'll help or give you some of my stash as a thanks, a lot of the routes could really use it!
What Guy said, climb it and take pictures please! I'm booked with fishing, chimney rocks, the watchtower and possibly tehipite for the next month (rough life) but scarlet slipstream is on my list and I'd love to hear from the brave soul that climbs it next!
-Daniel
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