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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 14, 2006 - 06:06pm PT
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Taken December 1977.
Mike racking up at Dead Bird Ledge.
Clowning around.
The Circle.
Racking up at a typical anchor.
Chuck glad to be at the anchor.
Belay duty.
Ken
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Jul 14, 2006 - 07:00pm PT
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Nice. Hard to believe the gear you guys used to use. I don't see any portaledges -- what did you guys use?
Ed
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2006 - 07:12pm PT
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My own modified Forrest hammock. State of the art at that time.
We had Foambacks and wool sweaters. Two days after we topped out it stormed for a month and so I took a job at Badger Pass.
Ken
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 14, 2006 - 07:32pm PT
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Note that in '77, the Zod was still a serious big stone route -- not the "trade" route that it is today. Nice send.
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Jul 25, 2006 - 11:20am PT
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Trade route? mmmmmm seems like it kicks more climbers off than reach the top!! This spring it ran about a 70% failure rate... not bad for a Trade route!!!
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Irisharehere
Trad climber
Gunks
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Jul 25, 2006 - 11:32am PT
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Is there a particular pitch that most of the bailers bail from? Or is it just generally first-wall snail-eye that gets them?
I have aspirations to head to Yos and get on something if I ever finish this mofo Ph.D.........
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scuffy b
climber
Chalet Neva-Care
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Jul 25, 2006 - 11:45am PT
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Nice nice pictures.
I have a Zodiac question. I was on DNB in May 1975.
There were two big rockfalls that day. The 2nd happened
when we were 6 or 7 pitches up. There was so much dust we
couldn't see Sentinel. Some rocks made it clear to the road,
and almost wiped out an occupied porta-potty.
Where did the rockfall occur? Was it from the Circle?
Thanks
sm
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Jul 25, 2006 - 11:50am PT
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nice reversal of the circle
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Jul 25, 2006 - 01:54pm PT
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Yo... most bail from the top of pitch two, next is the black tower pitch...
I see them all... the good, bad, and the ugly..
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 25, 2006 - 02:20pm PT
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What a way to go...on the can moaning the pipes and get wiped out by rockfall...
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jul 25, 2006 - 08:58pm PT
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Cool pics, Ken. Sort of have a museum quality to them. He, he.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2006 - 02:58pm PT
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Found some more photos.
At the base with a pilfered Housekeeping Camp submarine bunk. We ended up not bringing it on the route because the wind was creating havoc.
Nipple Pitch.
Chuck Goldman.
Peanut Ledge.
Pitch above Peanut Ledge. Our rack of big stuff had mysteriously fallen off the haul bag and only had two or three large pieces and resorted to pin stacking. Thirty feet from the anchor I tried several times to get a quadrupal stack to hold and decided to lieback the rest of the way in my Robbins boots on wet rock. I barely made it. The pitch was cleaned without a hammer.
Chuck topping out.
Summit photo.
Ken
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Ahhhh, a housekeeping camp portaledge -- comfy!!
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Nice pix, SCA style...
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nice shots, thank you for posting. Good lunch time trip.
Guy
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Robb
Social climber
Under a Big Sky
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What ever happened to Chuck Goldsmith?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2006 - 08:06pm PT
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Robb,
Last time I saw Chuck Goldman he was living in Wyoming and racing cars. I heard he may have moved to L.A. or Southern California though this is unverified.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2006 - 08:38pm PT
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Here is a few Goldman photos.
Ken
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