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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Another example of ASCA work this summer:
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Aug 13, 2013 - 02:26pm PT
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Don't forget Unaweep Canyon and Colorado National Monument in CO!
With the ASCA assistance I have replaced over a hundred poor anchors. It has been a pleasure dealing with them. Every climber owes their dues to the community both locally and nationally.
A secondary benefit, aside from safety that we experience with replacing and using the ASCA hardware is creating better relations with land managers. Such things as rainbow rat nets of tat are replaced with long lasting camo'ed hardware. Showing/taking responsibility and ownership over a sport that has direct impacts upon the environment is good stewardship.
Donate now and pass on the good word to friends!
-Jesse
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Aug 13, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
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Ha ha! I knew I forgot some areas! Thanks again for all your hard work Jesse!
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A5scott
Trad climber
Chicago
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Aug 14, 2013 - 12:48am PT
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done
scott
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Aug 14, 2013 - 02:55am PT
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had a few extra bucks from SushiFest. done.
now making a donation to WildAid (sharks) as well
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Aug 14, 2013 - 03:24am PT
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Re: single belay bolt on pitch 5 of Sunshine replaced with two beefy belay bolts....
On the third ascent of Sunshine in August 1978 with Pat Timson I was out over 145' from the belay on pitch 5 with nothing in between me and the belay on 5.9 terrian looking for that single belay bolt. I was yelling down to Pat, who had a 2"x4" piece of paper with a hand drawn topo by Bob Harrington who did the FA, to direct me to the bolt before I took a 300' whipper.
There was not enough detail on the topo to be able to help. I finally spotted a knob that could possibly be tied off and thought maybe the single belay bolt(the route had single, 1/4", belay bolts) was hiding on the other side of the knob. I traversed 10-15 feet to my left to the knob and, thankfully, the bolt was on the other side.
Thanks to Roger and Clint for all your hard work! And thanks to the ASCA for supporting them with hardware.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Aug 14, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
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Yikes Bruce!
But in Bob's defense...hard to make any topo that lets you find a single 1/4" bolt after a 145' runout in Tuolumne knobs!
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 14, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
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Done, even though I only bolder these days. Thanks for all the work.
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Aug 14, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
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Done!
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Old_Duffer
Trad climber
Lake Arrowhead
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Aug 14, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
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Donated enough for 1 belay in name of Rim of the World Climbing Club
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 14, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
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Sunshine was spooky way back when. The OZ was a lineup so Schutz and I decided to take a run at Sunshine. Besides, Tommy and TM were a pitch up and that must mean it is classic. Never mind that it is 1995 and Tommy climbs 3 number grades harder than us. The punch line is TM's reply to my question.
They get to the base and I shout down. "Hey, does this thing get better?" TM's reply " Thats the worst climb I've ever done in Tuolumne".
Thanks for replacing the bolts.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Aug 15, 2013 - 02:04am PT
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Just as a bit of history on Sunshine.....
I think the first pitch(5.9) had one bolt. I remember breaking a knob I was pulling on hard with my right hand which forced my upper body to twist so I was looking away from the rock and down only to see my belayer with a horrified look on his face at the prospect of catching a 70-80 foot whipper. Somehow I managed to stay attached to the rock.
The second pitch had one bolt to protect the start of a 5.10a traverse move 25' to the right which meant the second(me!) was looking at a huge swing if I cam off. The belay at the end of that pitch was a single 1/4" bolt on a 20 degree slab meaning that there was no way for the belayer to brace themselves for a fall. You had to hang all bodyweight on that bolt.
Of course that wouldn't be so bad, but right off the belay, at the start of the third pitch, was a 5.10a mantel with no pro and I suck at mantels. Actually, it is a double mantel and thankfully after the first 5.10 moves you could clip a fixed pin before doing the second mantel.
The fourth pitch was the crux(well, the hardest moves) at 5.10d and was reasonably protected by a fixed pin. For some reason there was a two bolt belay at then end of that pitch. Later, I chided Bob Harrington about chickening out on the 'single belay bolt' strategy and he remarked, "we didn't place that. Clevenger freaked out on the second ascent and added a bolt."
You have already read about the seriously runout 5.9 fifth pitch. The sixth pitch (5.7) had no protection.
When we did the 6-pitch route in 1978 there were 2 protection bolts, 2 pins for protection and 4 belay bolts with Clevenger adding another belay bolt to the top of pitch 4 for an overall total of 5 belay bolts.
As far as placing our own protection, Pat got a #2 old Chouinard stopper (second smallest size) in the roof on pitch 4 and I got a crummy #6 or #7 Chouinard stopper right at the start of pitch 5.
That makes 6 total pieces of protection spread over 6 pitches rated 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10a, 5.10d, 5.9 and 5.7. That's an average of one piece of protection for each pitch!
It's been 35 years and I may be off by one or two pieces of pro, but you get the idea. This was one serious route. After we got down, Pat, a solid 5.11+ climber, quietly drove us back to the campground where he quickly packed all his gear and headed back to Washington muttering something along the lines of having used up all his disposable lives for the climbing season.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 15, 2013 - 03:18am PT
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great story Bruce!
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