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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 4, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
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Freakin Love 'em!
Peter Mayfield made the 7" bongs in metal shop for an Excalibur ascent Max and I were thinking about.
The PO Wall rack, circa 1978.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
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There are very few real "nailing" routes left on El Cap. Certainly some of the very much more difficult and very far off the beaten path routes could be considered nailing routes.
Back then, we would go whole pitches with never placing more than a couple of nuts, cams didn't even exist back when these photos were taken. (actually, that's not true, Bridwell, Bard, and Deiglman were right below us on the FA of Sea of Dreams when the PO Wall pin photo was taken and they had Friends (#1, 2 and 3, no half sizes).
For the most part, "nailing" these days is five or six hammered pieces in a row.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
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Biners too!
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Magic Ed
Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
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Well, they had their place and time and sometimes they will work where nothing else will, but I, for one, don't miss them at all. Having said that, I do confess to having used a couple on my current project. And, yeah, you can never have too many carabiners.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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I wouldn't venture on to unclimbed rock, or alpine terrain without a few.
Is a bolt really better than a pin driven straight into a horizontal crack or down behind a bomber flake?
Moot points for those who've never placed pins.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Is a bolt really better than a pin driven straight into a horizontal crack or down behind a bomber flake?
NO! The time factor alone in an alpine quest would dictate that answer.
The leader always makes the call, judges.
Nice porn, there, Mr. H.
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| Messages 1 - 6 of total 6 in this topic |
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