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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
circtree
climber
truck
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 31, 2013 - 03:17am PT
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Hey all. I have a question about a rout I did on Eichorns Pinnacle the other day. When looking at the.. I guess south face of the pinnacle. The side that faces the cathedral topout.. There are three steep prominent off width cracks. Rather carelessly I had quickly consulted the super topo in the morning, left it at the car and headed up to the pinnacle from the north side slabs.
Upon reaching the saddle between the pinnacle and Cathedral peak, we were directly under the south face cracks. I thought, hmm, this looks good, this must be the west face route.. it sure doesn't look like five pitches. I headed up the farthest right crack, (farthest east) armed with a standard rack up to #3 c4. It was steep offwidthy and unprotectable with the gear I had. I slithered up it with a fair amount of fear. I had placed a .4 and a #3 side by side in a small crack system at the start of the pitch but as I soon found out there was absolutely no where else to place gear after that. After a nut puckering runout I reached the traversing ledge that I think links up with the 5.4 north face route.
Long story short, I am trying to figure out what I climbed. It seemed like maybe a tricky old school 5.9 OW. maybe I'm thinking it was a little harder in my mind because I had no gear in the sucker. I included a pic with an arrow drawn to the crack.
Any crispy old climbers know what this variation is?
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circtree
climber
truck
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2013 - 03:21am PT
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And for that matter. What are the two to the left?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 31, 2013 - 04:04am PT
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Lembert Dome!
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Jul 31, 2013 - 08:54am PT
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...sounds like you ran it out
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jul 31, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
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We watched a French couple climb it. I figured they wanted to climb the 5.4 and not intending to climb that route, but he was already headed up and I didn't want to be the dumbass yelling at him that he's off route.
later at the road they said it was scary and until he was into it, thought it was the standard route :)
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jul 31, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
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Ive always found those two on the left to be very enticing. Anyone climbed them? With all the knobs they probably wouldnt be that hard.
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 31, 2013 - 05:52pm PT
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Dunno about your off-route way, I usually don't have wide enough gear to try any of the cracks off the standard route.
Last year when we did E.P. Direct we found a fridge-sized death block about 40 ft on the ridge below where you traverse into the normal route. My partner stood on it & promptly freaked out when the whole thing started moving.
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circtree
climber
truck
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
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Good stuff, I'm sure it gets climbed from time to time. Does anyone know a grade?
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bluegreyguy
climber
sf, ca
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Jul 31, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
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I've climbed it twice and both times took the route you went - brought a #4 the second time and thought it was much better. Are others under the impression that Eichorn does not end in an unprotected old school bombay chimney/ow?
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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