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climbOff

Trad climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 29, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
Heading to Colorado with the wife for a couple weeks. This will be my first time out there, and am looking for climbing area/camping beta. I've been perusing mountain project and talking to friends, but wanted to see what the experts say. We're looking for areas with moderate routes, trad/sport.. doesn't matter. The longer the better. I heard ten mile canyon is good. Gonna check out Nederland area, and of course Eldo and RMNP. Any other good ideas?
ROtotheC

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Jul 29, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
South Platte is one of the only areas in the front range with good free camping and excellent climbing. Turkey rocks for lots of moderate trad stuff and Devil's Head for some sport.
Onewhowalksonrocks

Mountain climber
In the middle of the ocean
Jul 29, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
I have only visited Colorado. So here or two of my picks.

Lumpy Ridge, Estes Parks Co. Paid Forest Service Campground, close to town,
lot of climbing, gate way to RMNP

Turkey Rocks, Good climbing, Rustic camping, Solitude

It has been years since I have been there. So things do change.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Jul 29, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
Ten Mile canyon is probably not a destination spot, but Elevenmile is right up your alley: moderates, camping, scenic, quiet.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Jul 29, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
Ten Mile Canyon? It's a pretty view on your way to skiing at Copper in the Winter, otherwise any of the other suggestions are much superior.
Lloyd Campbell

Social climber
St. Cloud, MN
Jul 29, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
I'd just skip Eldo... I think you can only go there if there's some benefit to the people who live in Eldo Springs as they have been saddled with the immense burden of living near the state park. They might slash your tires or call the cops!
skywalker

climber
Jul 29, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
A few weeks? Much of what has been posted is accurate I think you'll find Stewart Green's Guide to Colorado a good reference. Not exhaustive by any stretch but plenty for a few weeks (maybe there is an updated version from someone else but I'm a local). A Colorado Gazatteer or equivalent is helpful.

Boulder area is a must but camping is tough. There is a place in Boulder Canyon, minutes from town, restaurants, groceries. I somehow stayed there and it was O.K. Think KOAish but may be worth it if on the road for a while (showers, hot tubs, and close) ~ 20 bucks a night per person, cabins available (google it 4 mile canyon). There is dispersed forest service car camping ~ 4-5 miles south of Nederland across from a lodge. Lodge on left take dirt road on right heading that way. Can be a little weird with squatters around. Not ideal if your in the Boulder area for say a week or more. Golden gate canyon state park has awesome camping but will put you an hour south of Boulder.

Lumpy? Not sure where to camp for that. Likely private pay campgrounds but again amenities are nice.

Long moderates? If you are headed for alpine RMNP. If not I'd say Eldo (up to 6 pitches)or Flatirons, Lumpy (Usually 4-5 pitches), South Platte check out Turkey Rocks 3 pitches (sweet car camping at trail head), Sheeps Nose 3-4, Cathedral Rocks 3-4 (huge approach but worth it). South Platte is my favorite weekend camping/ cragging place but far from groceries, etc. so be prepared.

That's my 7 cents. Hope you can follow all that. If you spent a week around each of those areas you'll find treasure and a great trip but Colorado is a big state with all types of climbing.

Hope that helps!

Cheers!

S...
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Jul 29, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
It's not Colorado, but it's less than two hours from Boulder...Vedauwoo. Great, free camping.
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