BC bolting 3/16" vs. 5/16"???

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 4, 2006 - 11:29pm PT
Maybe Greg can chime in on this. I just checked this out...

http://www.powers.com/pdfs/mechanical/03601.pdf

The optimum bc bolt would be what I used to know as a 5/16" Rawl Drive.

Now it appears the size is 3/16".

Has anyone actually purchased this sized bolt, and used it in conjunction with a bit, precisely what sized bit. I would assume it now should be a 3/16" bit. Anyone seen a 3/16" SDS carbide tip bit in use out there? 2" or 4"

e.g. http://power-tools.hardwarestore.com/54-383-hammer-drill-bits/sds-carbide-tip-bit-669510.aspx
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jul 5, 2006 - 12:43am PT
Can't help you on that one Munge, but I was just trying to order some Taper-Bolts (3/8" X 2 5/8").... 3/8" hole size - real easy to place. Strongest pullout and shear of any bolt on the market! Hard to find though... looks like these guys carry them...

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Greg maybe you know who makes Taper-Bolts nowadays (used to be U.S.E. Diamond Inc. out of York, PA) ?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2006 - 01:25am PT
doh, f*#k where's my math. Thx Klaus. disregard the above.

i need sleep apparently. they say it's good for functioning.



bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jul 5, 2006 - 01:30am PT
Yeah, I was gonna say 3/16" bolts sound a bit whimpy!
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Jul 6, 2006 - 12:26pm PT
There are 3/16 bolts on multipitch free routes on Squire Creek Wall in Washington. No hangers on some of them either. Personally, I've found that enough to divert me to other more thoughtfully put routes on other crags in the Darrington area. As a b/c bolt I'd think of it as a single use sort of deal, and would urge you use something fatter.

Matt M

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 6, 2006 - 01:25pm PT
And I thought the old rusty 1/4inchers I came across on 3 O'clock rock were scary!
Kevster

Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
Jul 6, 2006 - 02:29pm PT
Hey Bachar,
On those USE Taper bolts I had read somewhere that they were not recomended due to the very narrow torque range that they operate in. Too much or too little and you have a time bomb waiting to go off. If you want the best in convience and strength check out Petzl Long life bolts. Drill a 12mm x 2" hole, slide the bolt/hanger in and pound the pin in. Super easy to use while bolting on lead and the cost will keep your hole count down....
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2006 - 02:37pm PT
okay, that's enough of the bumping Munge's dumbf*#kedness up to the top again. :)

I repent already.

But while I'm here and all hopped up on caffeine, let's go thru the 'where to buy cheap stainless powers 5 piece anchors again' shall we?

In San Jose, CA I've been picking them up at Lord and Sons. Can't remember the price right now tho. Not cheap for stainless.

Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta