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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 26, 2013 - 08:00am PT
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Having just been up there with my son, I thought that I would pass my opinion on to others, since this route is so popular.
I have done multiple 1st ascents in the Wind Rivers, which had less loose rock on them, than this route which gets done multiple times in a day.
In the 4 times I've been at the base, rocks, up to the size of a large watermellon, have hit near the start of the route. My son and I came close to getting chopped by a big rock, dislodged by climbers, hauling near Big Sandy.
There is a large block-probably about 3-4 K pounds, balanced on a ledge, I think on pitch 3. I gingerly tried a hand jam behind it, and the block moved out. It is about 30 feet above the belay, and I'm sure will be pulled off by some climber in the future.
Loads of loose crap can be knocked off, on the way to Big Sandy.
Not trying to scare people away, but there are many young climbers doing this route. Just before starting up, a young climber came down, with the assistance of another team. He had dis-lodged a car size block, which shredded his rope; escaping with a bad cut on his thigh.
That block/flake is now wedged in the bottom of the chimney pitches, and it is huge. At the start of the Zig/Zags, there is a huge detached flake, which is bypassed, just to the left. I'm not sure what is holding it there,
but again, it is directly above the belay.
As I get older, with close to 50 years experience, I tend to be more observant and cautious. I'm sure many young rope-guns are far less cautious, and I just want to pass on my observations.
I enclose a picture of my son and I the day after our climb.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 26, 2013 - 09:09am PT
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Steve.....who's the dude with the gut next to you? Congrats to you and Mark! Did the route five years ago and don't remember any loose rock.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2013 - 09:51am PT
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Jim,
I was just talking to Jimmy Dunn and he told me that when he did the route back in 1969, their lead rope was completely severed by rockfall. He tied the rope back together and continued leading with the haul line.
I just bought plane tickets for the Wind Rivers.
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orle
climber
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Jun 26, 2013 - 09:58am PT
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I was far more concerned about the touron/litho chuckers on the summit.
I suppose that counts as "loose" too (of the "screw" variety)
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jun 26, 2013 - 10:17am PT
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Go sample the free variation pitches that bypass the bolt ladder. Now that is kinda loose and sketchy.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Jun 26, 2013 - 10:24am PT
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Did the route a few weeks ago after a 29 year break. I noticed that block midway on P3 as well. It's about refrigerator size and ready to go. The only other pitch that seemed loose to me was the one before you traverse to big sandy. That pitch had some big flakes I didn't want to touch.
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nopantsben
climber
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Jun 26, 2013 - 10:47am PT
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i saw that block you mention low on the route as well, and was also quite surprised that it is still there... there is a lot more loose crap off route.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Jun 26, 2013 - 10:59am PT
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Klemens, Bridwell, and I used to call it 'Half Dump'.
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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
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