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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 25, 2013 - 11:12am PT
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Clint and I started fixing ropes in TM for bolt replacement this weekend. That long fixed rope on Mountaineers Dome you can see from the road is one of ours. If you try to rappel it, be aware that there is a knot on a overhang that must be passed. Work will start there tomorrow. We fixed in two other locations also.
Roger
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
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The ASCA fixed ropes have been removed from Mountaineer's Dome and The Block. The bolts and hangers on American Wet Dike, Bastard from the Bush, Undisputed Truth, Thin Air, Namche Bazzar, Tourist Trap, Don't Exchange Body Fluids, Drafted, and Hammered, were upgraded to 3/8"
All fixed ropes were also removed from Whale's Back. All bolts and hangers on 11 of the routes were upgraded to 3/8"
Ropes are still fixed on Sunny Side Down on Daff Dome, but will be removed soon.
More ropes went up last weekend on Drug Dome. Sunshine and Lord of the Overhigh are now fixed from top to bottom with Lord of the Overhigh being worked on now. These ropes will be moved over to Just Say No and Dragonfly as work is completed.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jul 22, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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Thanks for your work!!
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10b4me
Ice climber
Middle-of-Nowhere, Arizona
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Jul 22, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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thanks Roger, and Clint.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jul 22, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
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Thanks for all your works, guys!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 22, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
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Thank you very much for your good work.
John
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 23, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
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Thank you....
We will begin bolt "testing" in August.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 23, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
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Thanks a lot Roger and Clint!
You guys rock!
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Jul 23, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
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Thanks a lot Roger! I've been wanting to check out Sunshine. Anyone here done it? Am I gonna die?
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jul 23, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
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So psyched to hear new bolts on Sunshine! Let's go gunna die!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 23, 2013 - 04:17pm PT
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Thank you Mr. Elbows of Steel!
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jul 23, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
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ahh. i was wondering what those fixed ropes on whales back were for. bet my routes were easy to replace. not too many bolts there......
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jul 23, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
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Incredible effort you guys put in . . . wish I could go mini-trax your lines. Just kidding.
Thanks for your role in preserving these routes for the masses.
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ruppell
climber
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Jul 23, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
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When you guys replaced American Wet Dyke how many bolts did you replace? When I did it a few years ago I could only find two. The old guide showed 3 but the new guide now shows 2. It was just a tiny bit spicy with the old 1/4"ers. Rad route though and hopefully people will get on it more now.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
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ruppell,
The Journal reads "Replaced both protection bolts"
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ruppell
climber
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Jul 23, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
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Roger,
That's what I thought. Either that or I am going blind. lol I forgot to thank you and everyone else working on bringing these routes into the 21st century so thank you. Some of the stuff you guys have already replaced and are going to replace is heady enough without "I wonder if that will hold" milling around in the back of your skull.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jul 23, 2013 - 11:36pm PT
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Thanks to the Climbing Angels.
You guys kick ass, Roger and Clint!
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Jul 23, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
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Oh, some great routes in that list! Thanks, guys!
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Jul 23, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
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Thank you for your public service!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jul 24, 2013 - 12:14am PT
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Thanks for dangling on ropes working away on your free time so the rest of us can climb (and survive). Thank you guys a ton, it's really appreciated!
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