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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 18, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
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I posted the following on Peter's photos thread.
Peter, great photos. I loved climbing Seaside. It's off limits now isn't it? Along with the Peanut (great climb) and others on the Falls Trail?
Then I tried googling the question.
Somewhere, maybe on the Taco Stand, I read that climbing above the trail is off limits.
If so, that's too bad, there are several excellent climbs there.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Apr 18, 2013 - 01:46pm PT
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Of what country are you a citizen?
Would you mind pulling over to secondary?
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
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Of what country are you a citizen?
Would you mind pulling over to secondary?
But you still haven't answered my question about the Falls Trail walls.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Apr 18, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
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Please pull over into secondary sir.
Actually, I've heard the same about climbing above the trail, but I don't know that for a fact. Is it a law? Part of the code? Or more of a guideline really....
Now pull into secondary sir.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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Now pull into secondary sir
I have never heard that before, so I googled it, I suppose it is the same as "please pull over", which I heard once on A CHP patrol car's loudspeaker.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Apr 18, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
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I have never heard that before
Watch the video on the Border Patrol thread and you'll be chuckling too!
Now, are you being a wise guy sir? Pull into secondary!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
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Survival, I watched that video, now I get it.
And no, I am not going to pull over into secondary.
I deleted some of my second post and will send it to you. I thought it wise.
Cheers.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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Apr 18, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
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i always wondered about this myself. hiking up that trail it is impossible not to notice all the rock up there and potential lines.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Apr 18, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
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amazing photo, Walleye!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
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Werner? Do you know what the official NPS policy is on the Falls Trail walls?
I did the Peanut in 1975, for me the crux move wasn't crux, but a move I was a bit short (5'6") on so I 'dynoed' (sp?) it, but Hank Ward who is like 6'1" followed and he had no problem.
Thanks Tom and, Kamps wasn't it?
And I love that little roof on Seaside. It's a gas.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 18, 2013 - 03:48pm PT
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WOW Walleye that is incredible. HOW do I get THERE?!
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 18, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
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Aren't a number of these routes in the blue Myers guide?
I've always been struck by these lines too.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 18, 2013 - 05:21pm PT
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The NPS asked that routes in the vicinity be withheld from the next guide after the barrage of rockfall that killed a few hikers and destroyed the trail in 82' or 83'.
Liberty cap's SE flank, Mist trail routes, and others were left out of the reid guide for the same reason.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Apr 18, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
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Walleye, really nice perspective pic.
I wanna see pics on Galloping Consumption or other stuff to the left of Smokey Pillar area. Can't recall seeing a TR for routes over there, and for years I've nursed the hope of throwing down some good obscure-but-right-in-front-of-your-face trip reports. Some day, probably not this year.
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Jason Torlano
Social climber
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Apr 18, 2013 - 05:34pm PT
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Not off limits. I climbed a good New Route Last summer It starts just right of the rockfall from 82 it is a free climb 10d 12 pitches. tops out just to the right of walleye photo. The cruz was not to trundle on the falls trail.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 18, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
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i always wondered about this myself. hiking up that trail it is impossible not to notice all the rock up there and potential lines.
Very true, although different things deterred us at different times. I remember mentioning it to Mike Ferrell in 1970 or 1971, and received the response to the effect, "You mean those crack systems that look hideously likely to go free?"
The fact that I, at the time, was hideously likely to nail them without trying to free climb them was enough to keep me climbing elsewhere in the Valley.
John
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Apr 18, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
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There was quite a bad avalanche up near and above the Peanut / Apron back in the seventies. I think there was a formal closure in the Peanut area for years, as well as a natural admonition to stay away. The third tier routes don't seem to be in Reid 1998.
Note too that the routes in Little Yosemite disappeared similarly but not in junction with rockfall, I am thinking. And in one of the guides there was some language (1970's editions) about not listing those LYV climbs. This is of course with the exception of Liberty Cap..
We need Jessie to chime in on the subject of forbidden zones for climbing.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 18, 2013 - 06:05pm PT
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Peter-
Liberty caps East flank's routes were withheld from the reid and big walls books.
It seems that there was a move to protect tourists from climbers on certain faces dating back as early as the 70's?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 18, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
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Roger, Joe and I replaced all the bolts on the "Charlie Brown Apron" (Jumbo Go Away, Chain Reaction, The Peanut, No Teats) last summer. Also a few on Brush Off.
Planning to include it in the next edition of the guidebook.
One of klaus's new routes, Spray Fest (just left of Brush Off) will definitely be in the next edition and looks like a great climb.
There are certainly risks to climbing above trails, but the trail area is fairly wide; if you decked somehow, you would hit some feet from the trail and the hikers could easily jump to the side....
Since it's a slab, there is not much loose rock on the climbs except for the occasional 2" x 2" x 1/8" flake.
There is a lower angle vegetated area above the slab where loose stuff might come off, but no climbs up there that I know of at present.
Those would be much higher risk to the trail - bigger rocks and higher velocity.
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Peter
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Apr 18, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
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Ahhh, the next edition of the guidebook. All of our questions will be answered...
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