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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 16, 2013 - 11:17pm PT
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I read a little bit on this, and have some ideas in my head that will work, but figured I would pick the brain of some wall rats...eerr talented wall climbers on here....
The question is, how do you "best" clean a traversing pitch when soloing?
Here are my thoughts so far. If you can, essentially just down aid back down and across, using a gri-gri with the brake side going to the upper anchor and the "climber" side of the gri-gri going to the lower anchor. So as you aid back across you pull rope through the gri-gri and towards the lower anchor. Potential problems I though about with this are, as you clean more pieces on the way back there's less and less gear between you and the anchor making the potential for a fall on the anchor more likely if a piece blows on the way back near the anchor.
A different approach, would be rap the haul line, and then jug back up to the lower anchor (since you will be below it because of the traverse), and then just clean the pitch normally as a second following a traverse.
After writing this out I'm thinking option two sounds much better, but if the pitch is long this might not be an option so I guess the first option will work for that...
DID ANY OF THAT MAKE SENSE?!?!?! and yes i'm gunna die, but man I'll have fun on the way out!!!!11!1
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Apr 16, 2013 - 11:21pm PT
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It can't be worse than the KB pitch on Iron Hawk. I rapped the haul line to the bottom of the loop and jugged back up to the anchor and then cleaned it as any second would.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
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Thanks Mark. As I was writing that, I kind of came to a realization that that would be the best / easiest way to do it.
The Valley awaits at the end of the week...
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Grizzly
Big Wall climber
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Apr 16, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
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What are you going to solo??
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Apr 16, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
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I've done mine the same way. Rap down & clean on the way back up.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Apr 16, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
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Good thread, this is the kind of stuff I'd like to see more of. The hook thread is a good one too.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
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Grizzly, I only have two days free so I have a couple different grade V routes in mind. I keep going back and forth in my mind on what to do we'll see what happens.
Batrock, this is why I love this place. So much combined knowledge in once place.....that and boobs (RIP)
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Apr 17, 2013 - 12:29am PT
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Definitely clean it in the same direction as you led it, not in the opposite direction!
And as with any aid climbing traverse, don't backclean! If you do, you had best bring those pieces back to re-place as you are cleaning.
Clean on your aiders, not your jugs, with your Grigri as backup. And ALWAYS tie a backup knot. Well, at least in this case.
Sometimes when I am jugging a plumb clean, I just let the rope dangle and don't tie backups, always being attached to the rope by at least two ascenders.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2013 - 12:38am PT
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Thanks Pete. You're info on here and others sites around the web have really helped me along the way. A while ago I read about your "better way" to clean traverses with one jug and a grigri and have been doing that since (obviously not straight horizontal pitches, then I would aid back through)
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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