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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 10, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
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Hey hosers. This is the last pitch of "Power of Lard". Quite a looker, eh?
Steve Grossman's "Warrior's Way" and "Hockey Night in Jersey" along with the late Darrel Hatten's "Tom Egan Memorial Route" are also right around there. Who's been up that way and has stories to share?
Other reference points:
Jon Walsh/AlpineStyle.ca
Will Stanhope
Ben Bransby blog and video
The Future is Now
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Cloudraker
Sport climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 10, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
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BOOM!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Apr 10, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
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That is such a friggin fine line.
I spent a lot of time at the base staring up at that line.
Sick - er, psych - photos in those blogs
Nice links
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Apr 11, 2013 - 12:56am PT
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uh, warrior way was NOT done by grossman.
me, the jirka brothers, and maddog did it with too little beer and I wandered off to climb with susan detweiler while the others sat in a tent and captured a mouse for the day.
....long story.
July 1993.
obvious right angling corner that goes up toward the egan headwall but stays to the left.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 11, 2013 - 01:44am PT
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88. Sunshine Wall FA: Art Higbee, David Breashears, 1975
89. Warrior Way FA: Cliff Jirka, Craig Jirka, Andy Dannerbeck, Rick D, 7/1993
90. Hockey Night in Jersey FA: Keith Johnson, Steve Grossman, 8/1994
91. Sweet Sylvia FA: Craig Luebben, Will Hair, Brad Jackson, Kennan Harvey, 7/1997
92. Tom Eagan Memorial FA: Daryl Hatten, John Simpson, 1978
93. The Power of Lard FA: Toni Lamprecht, Gunter Dengler, 1996, AAJ
94. White Ducks in Space FA: Rob Orvig, Jock Richardson, 7/1982
95. Hobo's Haven FA: Jim Beyer, 8/1976
[Edited - thanks, gf]
This is from my Bugaboos route list, which is somewhat incomplete, but could be updated:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/bugaboos/index.htm
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
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Stewart
Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
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Apr 24, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
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Note to Clint - the correct spelling is "The Tom Egan Memorial Route".
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 26, 2013 - 10:47pm PT
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I don't have time to tell the story of Hockey Night in Jersey with Keith Johnson right now beyond saying that we are Rangers fans but I do have this account of the Tom Egan Memorial FA from The Bugaboos by J F Garden.
I have been meaning to post this in Daryl's memory for a while so this is a great place for it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 28, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
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Hatten Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 19, 2013 - 11:48am PT
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Bump for a Bugaboo...
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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May 19, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
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Bugaboo pysch!
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
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Lots of action under clear skies last week! The Applebee gang seem to extra-strong and motivated. ¡que tenga suerte, chicos!
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2013 - 12:44am PT
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Repeating Southern Belle never hurts on your resume.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Bump for a good story of passion and determination.
Thanks Greg
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Jun 16, 2014 - 07:02pm PT
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A rad photo from Instagram. Photo credit to Tim Kemple!
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