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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 13, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
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For anyone interested in the climbing history of the UK Don Whillans and Joe Brown were THE partnership advancing the grades of climbing in the UK in the 1950's. This video is a reunion of two "old" men to climb Cemetery Gates E1 5b (5.10a/b)a route they first climbed 33 years before this was filmed in 1984. Sadly a few months after this was filmed Don died. This was his last climb. The constant banter between these old pals is great.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 13, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
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Whoo hoo!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 13, 2013 - 07:12pm PT
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Awesome! I'll have to watch it later though.
Can't wait, I love stuff like this!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 13, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
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"Have you enjoyed yourself so far Don?"
"Me? Aye, in a sort of twisted, sort of way.."
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fosburg
climber
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Mar 13, 2013 - 07:52pm PT
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Classic! You gotta love Joe Brown sporting a Joe Brown helmet. "Manchester, so much to answer for...".
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
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That video is fantastic and poignantly sad at once.
I found it quite sad the way he talks about doing more of these climbs with his old pal and that he will get fitter and enjoy it more. As we know that didn't happen because he died shortly afterwards.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 13, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
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Just terrific Andy!!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Mar 13, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
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Thank you so much for this post, Andy!
WHillans made it to Ysoemite in 1966, where he did Crack of Doom, Crack of Despair, the NW Face of Half Dome, I think Steck-Salathe, and more.
John
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Mar 13, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
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That was really special... Interesting watching the camaraderie between the two. Pretty special.
Susan
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 13, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
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For those that found this poignant and interesting, I recommend Jim Perrin's book, The Villain: a Portrait of Don Whillans
It explains quite a bit of that relationship, even the parts Joe takes about in the film of Whillans disliking every one of Joe's girlfriends, causing their estrangement. You can get it for just a few bucks, say here:
http://www.alibris.com/booksearch?qwork=8949867&matches=14&cm_sp=works*listing*title
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Mar 13, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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the high step at the crux came out of nowhere. cool stuff
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 13, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
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The lad loved his brews.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Mar 13, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
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Thanks for sharing, it was a stellar find.
Two old hens bantering....:)
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Mar 13, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
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Nice vid, thanks for sharing it Andy!
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Mar 13, 2013 - 11:21pm PT
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Great vid....thanks. Read and thoroughly enjoyed the "Villian". Also, was lucky enough to take a trip in the 80's to Wales and climbed Cemetery Gates, Cenotaph Corner and Left Wall. Cemetery was my favorite probably because it was the only one of the three I didn't take a 20 foot leader fall! Great climb, great history, and a nice insight into the relationship between these two icons.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Mar 14, 2013 - 10:39am PT
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Well done lad
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jopay
climber
so.il
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Mar 14, 2013 - 11:27am PT
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Thanks for posting this, I've long admired Whillans both for his climbing resume which encompassed rock, alpine and mountaineering and the fact he was a working class lad, a fellow plumber. Seems he did it his way and we all admired that, he still busted a couple of good moves on that climb. I also still have my Joe Brown helmet.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Mar 14, 2013 - 11:35am PT
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Yes I am haunted by the ghost of Don Whillans. Have been for a long time. I try to heed his warning... sometimes better than others.
If these musings are out of place I will delete them. I mean Whillans no disrespect....
I thought your personal musings and reflections were very moving...
Susan
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The great state of advaita
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Mar 14, 2013 - 11:59am PT
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Poignant DMT. Much appreciated and thank you for sharing such a personal perspective. That's running it out, in a way. I think it's additive.
Eric
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