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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 22, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
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Well that made me cry.... the way he was cold on the hike in he very well may have had a heart attack?
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Feb 22, 2013 - 06:43pm PT
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Wow. That's a very tough thing to write. Kudos to him for doing it, and once again my condolences to Pam.
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Feb 22, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
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Heavy stuff. Thanks for posting this.
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ELM !
climber
Near Boston
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Feb 22, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
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It is a sad accident. From the earlier reports I thought he had fractured his hip and then had a heart attack from either the stress or a clot.
This section :"Jack died of a Hemo Pneumo Thorax. Blood from his broken ribs and subsequent internal injuries filled his chest cavity and compressed his heart and lungs to the point they no longer worked. He had six broken ribs on his upper right back(?) side, and a dislocated and hairline fractured hip."...really shows that he took a hard fall and hit the ice maybe twice hard. That type of pneumothorax is something you see in unrestrained car accident victims.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 22, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
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hey there say, RDB...
thank you kindly for sharing this...
i did not know him but i loved his very nice posts...
and learning of what a good man he was...
i cried when i heard he died and i wondered whyy he could not be
saved, after he was still alive from the fall--which made it twice as sad, then... now, i understand... *i just read the story...
had to cry again... i am glad he died with you, in a warmer way, than
being alone, or not knowing that someone was with him....
thank you so much...
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Feb 22, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
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Looks like our bones get more brittle when we truly get old. May be a good idea to put in more pro even if our minds still feel young. I knew Jack just a little when we were young. RIP Jack.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 22, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
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thank you for posting this,
best wishes for Jonathon, I don't know him but he's a person that I wouldn't hesitate being out there with...
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Feb 22, 2013 - 11:24pm PT
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Jonathon - thanks so much for posting your story, I know it was very difficult to do so. I think of Jack often, especially when I repeat a route that we had climbed over the years. Here's a pic of JR at the base of the RNWF of Half Dome - one of the best adventures we shared. RIP Jackster...
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 22, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
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How sad. Thank you for your beautifully written account.
This is the life and sometimes the death we share. If we wanted to play it safe, we'd stay at home.
Condolences to Jack's friends and family.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 22, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
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Thanks for hosting this Dane.
Jon: no doubt, hard for you to write this down and also very important to us.
Much appreciated.
Best wishes.
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Double D
climber
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Feb 23, 2013 - 12:38am PT
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Thanks for posting this.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 23, 2013 - 12:49am PT
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Ummm...tough stuff...
Susan
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Feb 23, 2013 - 12:59am PT
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Thanks for the story. Must have been very hard. Jack was a great partner.
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane ~:~
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Feb 23, 2013 - 02:30am PT
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Brave stuff. I have always admired and had a lot of respect for Jack. From my early days in The Valley upon hearing of some of his exploits, such as the SA of Tis*sack with Charlie Porter. To his SA of The Shield with Hugh Burton.
I recall a bunch of us sitting in the meadow one Spring morning, as we all focused on what was unfolding high above on the Captain. Jack was leading the crux "30 rurps in a row" pitch on the Shield. Something which, at the time, would send chills down the spine of anyone just thinking about it, let alone contemplating leading the SA of it.
And I remember one of the heavies of that era commenting something to the effect, "Man, he must be a one bold dood, let alone a damn good climber." Indeed he was.
I didn't know him personally then, but met him briefly once at the "Adventure 16 (A16) Mothers Day Swap Meet" that was held each Spring in their parking lot. I believe it was 1982 and he was selling a bunch of his gear. He had a ton of it, a lot of it geared towards alpine climbing since he had done a lot of stuff in Alaska by that date.
He seemed surprized that I new who he was, somewhat embarressed in fact, and he obviously preferred to not be the center of attention. Very humble guy. RIP
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Feb 23, 2013 - 11:07am PT
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Bump.
Jon, thanks so much for sharing...indeed, I know how difficult this whole experience has been for you, and my heart goes out to you, my friend. Dane called me yesterday to let me know this was up on his blog, and I was glad to see you had finally put it out there. We had a very nice talk....and did discuss the importance of perhaps running out ice routes a bit less, especially since screws are so much easier to get in these days.
I know that some people have conjectured that maybe he had a heart attack or some other physical glitch that caused him to fall. All I know is that they did a full autopsy on him, and didn't find anything that indicated anything like that, for what it's worth. He had been sick with a bad cough over Christmas break, so maybe it was something as simple as a coughing fit. Who knows...........
Not a minute goes by when I don't think of Jack, and don't miss him deeply, even after a year plus. I certainly have a whole new appreciation for grief and the complexities in grappling with such a blow, that's for sure! I don't know how people do it without the kind of amazing friends that I have....I am very fortunate!
Anyway, thanks to Jon for sharing...........
Pam
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telluridejon
Social climber
Telluride
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Feb 23, 2013 - 11:41am PT
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Thank you to all, most especially to Pam and Dane. We have had numerous chats about the accident and life, and felt it was appropriate to put this out there. I didn't cry writing this, but I'm tearing up reading everyone's comments .
Thank you.
Jon
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Feb 23, 2013 - 12:05pm PT
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Thanks for the post. The what ifs are always the hardest thing to reconcile
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Feb 23, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
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Thanks for sharing your heartfelt account of Jack's last climb.
What strikes me again is how,in a few seconds, a climbing outing can change from a joyous lark to a stark tragedy. We pay a huge price in grief for this passion of ours.
Rick
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Feb 23, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
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Rick, pretty concise assessment! I always appreciate your words and care!
Pam
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