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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 12, 2013 - 12:54am PT
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So I have read the PMI study and understand fall factors but does anyone have any definitive beta on impact of climber weight on gear stability?
For example, the tests are conducted with 80kg mass falls but in practice how many people, with gear on, weigh this little? Especially on overnight trips.
What is the current school of thought on weight (either in spent beer or extra gear) and when to worry about gear stability in relatively solid rock?
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Feb 12, 2013 - 01:08am PT
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My name is Wedgy. I weighed 210lb solid as a rock.
Guess how I got my nick name ?? I preferred 3/8" stainless hardware. Partners usually met me about half way up.
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JimT
climber
Munich
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Feb 12, 2013 - 02:55am PT
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The 80kg rigid test mass used was chosen after considerable testing as representing a ca.100kg climber in a harness.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 12, 2013 - 09:51am PT
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80kg?
Inflation on the standard 70k man? Keeping up with the times....
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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Feb 12, 2013 - 10:48am PT
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What Daves link really shows is that the worst kind of falls to take are those close to the anchor with very little rope out. You don't have to be big to break gear when the fall factor increases. The hard thing for most people to realize is that is puts less force on the gear to take a 40 footer at the end of a long pitch (150ft) than is would be to take a 10 foot fall close to the anchor because there isn't enough rope in the system to absorb the force and as a result there is a lot more force put on that piece. It all comes back to the length of the fall/amount of rope in the system.
Although I've got to admit the difference between the 176 lb and 225 pound climber is more than I would have guessed
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