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Greg Barnes
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 9, 2003 - 10:43pm PT
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After numerous requests by friends, planning on replacing some bolts on the Harding route on Conness.
The Reid topo shows 8 bolts:
4 along the ow
1 along the squeeze chimney
2 on the 6th pitch
1 at the belay at the top of the 6th
I doubt I can get them all done (car-to-car in a day). I think 4 would be realistic, plus maybe replace others with new 1/4" bolts.
So, for those who've done it, does this plan sound good?
Replace one bolt along ow
Replace the bolt along the squeeze
Replace both protection bolts on the 6th
For the rest, replace with new 1/4" bolts if needed/possible.
What would be your priority bolts to replace?
Also, are any of the bolts 1/4" nail-ins? (hard to drill through sleeve bits with a 1/4" bit if replacing with 1/4", easy to drill through with 3/8").
Thanks - Greg
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2003 - 01:44pm PT
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Hey Matt,
Short answer: not much really.
Long answer:
Haven't done the route since '99 or so, went to do it twice last year but always ended up on Direct NW Face.
Did it first around '96 and there were 3 bolts on pitch 1 (one 30' above the blocks, then go left 40' to second, then up a ways to a third, then to the crack). There was also a hangerless 1/4" bolt with a nut right before you got to the crack, slung it with a stopper.
The Tuolumne SAR guys replaced a bunch of bolts in '98 but they weren't the sorts to add bolts, and some of the ones mentioned (at anchors at least) were there in '96.
In Oct. 2000 I chopped an old 1/4" with Leeper next to the 1-2" crack at the huge ledge belay (totally unneeded, bomber pro), and replaced a screwed-up Fixe bolt (10mm bolt pounded into a tightly drilled 3/8" hole, didn't go all the way in, top of the bolt cracked, hanger spinning) that was the first protection bolt on the 5th pitch. Also replaced the protection bolt on the left (5.9 R) finish variation, and the top pitch of Motivated by Food (2-bolt belay and 3 protection bolts). The direct finish (5.9+ X) still has a bad bolt.
My guess is that the added bolts were done sometime in the early '90s by ???. Possibly the McDevitts when they added that killer 10a finish? No idea...
Greg
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kb
Trad climber
oakland,ca
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Jul 16, 2003 - 03:08pm PT
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Greg,
Just climbed the Harding Route July 12th and remembered your post from June.
We counted 10 bolts and all were the Star Dryvin type.
5 protection bolts and 1 belay bolt on P5. 2 protection bolts and 1 belay bolt on P6. The last bolt was off route on pitch 8. We climbed straight above belay 7 instead of up and right. That is where we found the 10th bolt, it was probably used to pendulum back to the right.
I agree that the OW bolt, squeeze bolt, and P6 protection bolts are the most critical. The first couple of bolts on P5 are not needed. You can place reasonably sized cams (hands to fists) instead. After this point you rely on the bolts for protection unless you're carrying #5 Camalots and Big Bros.
P5 and P6 belays can both be backed up with gear.
We spent 6 hours on the route, so I think replacing 4 bolts is pretty reasonable.
Hope this helps,
kb
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2003 - 12:15am PT
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Thanks kb, were the bolts all 1/4" star-dryvin or were there some 3/8"?
The 1/4" have tiny little heads, the 3/8" much bigger. Harding tended to use 3/8" at belays but not always.
Greg
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kb
Trad climber
oakland,ca
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Jul 18, 2003 - 12:18pm PT
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Pretty sure they're 1/4". The heads were small.
kb
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Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
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Jul 18, 2003 - 01:59pm PT
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GB-
did the route a couple weeks ago, and more than once thought "wouldn't it be great if Greg were to come up and here and class this up a bit."
I agree entirely with your assessment of what's needed. The hangers are "historic" and "interesting"; even a drilled pin or two. you may want to replce the more critical (ancient) ones. Most beta doesn't encourage anything larger than a #3 camalot if i remember, and the bolt on the squeeze section is a long way down if you don't have anything large. i'd say this bolt is the most crucial. those on pitch six can be backed up easily; in numerous ways(not so crucial).
Thanks for all your work. Truly appreciated it on the visit to Tuolomne.
Jer
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clustiere
Big Wall climber
Running Springs
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Has this been redone. If not is it legal to bring a bosch up here.
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