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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 22, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
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Living in Carson City, Dinosaur Rock is one of the closest crags. I know it all goes clean; but has anyone messed around with anything downstream? Nothing in my guide book. Thinking of trying aid climbing on the downstream stuff, if nobody would mind.
Here's a couple pictures from last time there and some of the rock I'm talking about.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jan 22, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
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Looks like YACP! (Yet another choss pile)
Go get some.
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 11:42am PT
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Sweet. You're all more interested in personal attacks on the posters of the BOOBS thread, and guns. Guess I can nail up whatever I want. Thanks!
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
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That's what I'm looking for. I don't want to "f*$k up" a bunch of known routes. Problem is, they're not in the guide books. So if not, then it looks like open season. That's why I asked. Not training for a known route, trying to learn good pin placements for some canyoning and/or alpine stuff way out in the middle of Nevada and/or California. This area happens to be close to me and tall enough to get more experience than the 20ft choss pile above my house. Knowing now that there are established routes, I'll avoid it. Satisfied?
Sensitive? Yah, maybe. Then again, I didn't nuke the BOOBS thread, nor am I really offended that it's gone. It was just a matter of time on a climbing site visited by multiple nationalities and such varied sensitivities.
But hey, sure... I could leave and just nail up whatever the f*&k looks good to me, if that's what you really want. It's not like I'm out bolting a bunch of s&*t. Go look up all the debates over guns, boobs, bolts, etc. Check out the first page of the forum and tell me again how sensitive I am for not really being excited about wading through all the b.s. just to get a little climbing info...? I bet a s*&t ton of y'all would be real sensitive if I showed up at your local crag and started pounding away. Talk about sensitive!
Quite frankly, I don't blame people like Lolli for leaving and pulling their posts. Makes a helluva better statement than mine.
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
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Does it matter?
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
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Good God. The point is to not nail up other people's routes. But hey, maybe we can get some good debate of the entire ethics of nailing vs clean, eh? That could be fun.
By the way, when I started here I had a much better attitude. Now it's about half "I don't give a f*&k" directly due to the way some have responded to me on this site. FYI
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
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Milsurp pins are cheap. I'm trying to learn placement with what I can afford.
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
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Do you even recognize your own attitude? I came with a simple question, got it answered, and you choose to flame me. Nice!
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
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Hey, can we shift the discussion to your thoughts on bolted sport routes that won't take any natural pro? Just how DO you feel about those?
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
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Don't worry, I'll start more threads like this with pictures asking "hey, has anyone ever climbed this or can I nail it?" so that:
a: more discriminating climbers such as yourselves can flame me for using antiquated techniques and materials
b: someone might recognize the area and recommend elsewhere, though "a" seems a bit more likely
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
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BTW- Thanks Ron. Otherwise, I'd be out there running pins into something I shouldn't.
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
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Yeah. That's true. I don't know what I'm doing. That's why I asked. I did buy the guidebook. Unfortunately, those routes Ron mentioned are not in it.
Why should I assume every rock that exists has ever been climbed? I've seen other people post asking bout FA's etc. I've seen the bolt war threads and how people react to anything iffy. It just seems easier to throw a picture up here with the simple question I asked at the beginning. And look what it turns into!
"yer using antique pins and methods? Oh my god! Yer an insolent assbag who can't understand that everything next to the road is a known route whether listed or not and yer gonna die while you f&*k up the rock!"
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jan 23, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
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Cool thread!
Hillrat, you live in Carson City? Come check out Carson Valley Sentinel on the south facing side of the Clear Creek Hill. Climb Sunny Delight, I'd like your feedback.
No nailing, though. :)
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
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Words on a screen. Like words on paper. You know, you've all got good points and I recognize that. But as I've been told here before, I need a thick skin to hang out... so... here it is. If I really didn't give a s(*t I would have stayed gone and just gone ahead and started nailing. Big walls are long and far away for me, but there are places I want to go that it might be nice to have a few pins along just in case. Also, should the chance come along to go do a big wall, it would be nice to have some kind of clue what's going down so I don't end up like the dudes trying to rap the Captain.
In the mean time, we've got a five month old kid now which severely limits any chance of the S.O. going climbing with me. She also has no interest whatsoever in big walls, and I mean NONE; and my other usual partner live in Sacramento, which means he's not around to climb much either. Neither of them lead, period. So my options are limited.
That leaves me to experiment and practice:
a: at the gym. whoopie.
b: solo. preferably in an area that someone will notice some unconscious dude hanging upside down.
Let the flaming continue...
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jan 23, 2013 - 01:12pm PT
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Hey hillrat,
depending on exactly what you are trying to learn, you might consider:
1. trying to clean aid up the existing routes (say, the ones that Ron Anderson mentioned). It's fun to set up a self-belay system and work out the kinks. A good idea to try this on easier ground without the extra hassle of hammers, iron, great fear, etc. Kind get the system worked out; place, step up, clip rope, search, place, transfer, step up.
2. For strictly nailing practice, just pick an inobvious line, something that seems out of the way, short, steep. Superficially scabby/flakey/licheny rock, that would be unappealing to any one free climbing, is perfect. Look for thin seams that are too small for Aliens and TCUs, try out the Beaks, Peckers, Tomahawks, Blades, heads.
3. If you're looking for actual, worthy, new aid/mixed routes, look for the most exposed, steep, ridiculous overhangs to nail, cos nothing else is worth all that trouble. Aiding is a lot of work. Binoculars can help locate the tiny seams.
I've barely placed an angle in years because modern clean gear is superior (and faster) for just about any possible angle-piton placement.
Have at it! And have fun!
ps, I hear you on the lack of climbing content here. I'm halfway wondering if it's worth bothering contributing any more climbing stuff, it gets buried so fast, and what's in its place is such a ceaseless tide of "me" "me" drivel. On the non-climbing threads, you have to be fast, snarky and aggressive if you want anyone to respond. The personal attacks and snarky attitude start creeping into the climbing threads.
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
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Thanks guys, I intend to do just that if possible. All the B.S. was big in the reasons I left. The climbing content is why I'm still around. Figure if I can wade through the rest and try to keep my personal opinions to a minimum, the place has some merit. If I ever actually DO get out to where I want to go I'll be sure to take lots of pictures and post them up here.
Oh, and a little bit of snark seems to get attention on the climbing threads too.
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
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Well, there's some stuff out north of Elko that looks a lot like the Pig Rock and Iron Butte areas when I go back out there. There are also some areas I'd like to visit in the Humboldt Range, both limestone and I think some granite. Then again, I've seen some rock out by Gerlach that could be interesting. In particular is a coarse-grained limestone/schist area off highway 20 where I saw someone set up with a large sluice. Down canyon from that it gets very steep and I doubt anyone has been there with a pan for a very long time, if ever. Yeah, that one has got me flamed before too.
Oh but you want a particular route? No... not yet. It's not someones favorite 5.7-5.9 I'm looking to nail up. I'm looking for practice in learning different techniques that I've not used. It's controversial? You mean like bolting sport routes where you actually drill a hole in the rock and place a permanent anchor controversial? No kiddin...?
It's all new to me within the last year and a half. I got six months of climbing with the S.O., then pregnant and no more climbing with her. Had to drag in a reluctant friend from Sacto.
I appreciate the safety and the fun of it, seriously. But maybe if I'm looking to learn this on established routes I should go after the aid route at River Rock next. 'Course, A3 is just a tad over my head. Just thought it was a good place to check before I really did go out and nail up some known/established free route. The idea is to get some experience placing and cleaning. I'd rather get flamed here than for having to call in SAR because I got stuck.
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
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I can see that "altering the features you climb" on things that are, say... fingers and more. What about those tiny little seams that nobody can hold onto? Is it that now we view everything as potentially free and therefore off-limits to pins? If that's the case, there should be no routes with things like bolt ladders, sections that require nailing of any sort, etc. No route should be established as such. Would you agree? Or is it acceptable on established aid routes and new routes put up on, say, an otherwise blank face?
Climbing itself seems controversial in some places, including whether or not to even use chalk, or what color chalk. No metal gear allowed at all in some places, and thus you get the monkey's fist kind of pro. So what level of controversy is acceptable?
Robbins work, et. all, is not in my library as yet. Considering where I like going, what kind of things I like doing, and my lifestyle overall, I'd say I'm already a thoroughly controversial character in today's modern society anyway. I like climbing, hunting, fishing, boobs, a little beer, 4x4ing, prospecting, and presentations by the Sierra Club (the one on bats here a couple years ago was fascinating), as well as conservation. To a point. All in moderation of course. Some accept none of it. Others want chaos and anarchy. Nobody seems to much hang out in the middle ground.
meh. Find yer own line, I guess.
http://vimeo.com/channels/staffpicks/57370112
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
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A4? Not for me, thank you.
The other routes you posted look pretty good. If I aid them, it's going to be clean. Though I'll more likely go just try to free them. Work on my anchoring and solo techniques and all.
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
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Here are a couple of places I'm interested in. I posted some of these here before, but pulled those posts. Looking upstream in the canyon shots, about 250 ft to the bottom here on the upper end of it. The lower end just gets steeper and deeper. I don't think you could descend without rope.
Off 80
Elko- these suck in terms of rock pictures, but it's what i've got. There's lots of stuff out there that looks like this. Most very much choss, but some solid stuff. At least as "goog" as pig rock.
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