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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 5, 2003 - 04:29pm PT
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http://tinyurl.com/dkvs
I didn't link the pic directly because it is bad form to do it without permission.
This is because whenever the Supertopo thread is clicked, it makes a hit
to this guy's site, whereas most folks will only click on the pic once
or twice here and move on.
I think this really only matters when it is a personal homepage
such as this one which might have limited bandwidth/throughput allocated.
Make sense?
Hardman Knott
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Matt
Trad climber
SF Bay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2003 - 05:26pm PT
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those damn canadians are threatening our way of life!
they don't seem to share our values!
they over bolt like terrorists!
i say "you are either with us or you are against us!"
maybe coiler and minerals need to get out on the road and do something about that shaiiyte!
(~5.10 sport = 5.11+ (is it really 45 degree?) overhanging off-width/ rattle-y fists)
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Hardman,
You are being elitist and selfish. Without the bolts, only the folks with the money for the pricey big cams and the experience to place them would be able to do the route. Just think of how many more people will be able to enjoy that crack now.
Power (drill) to the people!
(Sorry, I couldn't resist.)
Melissa
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Ben Rumsen
Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
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Now I'm really starting to dislike the whole sport climbing mentality. Maybe these climbers are just too cheap to buy camming devices.
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BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
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the end draws nearer...
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andy@climbingmoab
Big Wall climber
Denver
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ick, time for a bolt chopping road trip. i'll pitch in a case of beer for whoever cleans that mess up.
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Slab-Dyno
Trad climber
Pennsylvania
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2003 - 06:38pm PT
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That picture will haunt my dreams forever.
Jimmy
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Bloodynipples
Big Wall climber
The Mountain Room Bar
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I'll contribute beer to the bolt chopping cause.
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bigwalling
climber
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The Grandwall in Squamish. I always wondered why it got bolted too. I believe the guy who bolted it has done F.A. of El Cap too.
But look at Zodiac. All those bolts next to that whide crack above peanut ledge.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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I think Beyer chopped all but three of those Zodiac OW bolts.
Buy hey, instead of removing the old 1/4 inch bolts on Wheat Thin, they got replaced!
At least the bolts in the picture are good for something. It looks like you could stand on them and shake out!
;-]
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FTB
Big Wall climber
Near the Vally, CA
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CHOP THEM ALL!!!!!!!!!!!
What a disgrace to the community. I'm a peaceful guy, but, someone should kick the bolter ass.
Later
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bigwalling
climber
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It is on of the few cracks in squamish with bolts. What a shame for Squamish! Squamish does have a 5.13c trad climb. It is 50m and you can only get 5 peices of gear in on the whole thing. I remember the F.A. telling me that the crux is protected by a #2 stopper. So there are some "real" climbers up there. But Perry's Layback(photo) needs to get chopped! I'm not good enough to do the climb though.
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FREEclimber
Social climber
SF
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Someone should post a picture of the bolt ladders on the 5.10 slab pitch of the EButt of MCR (far fewer bolts would still make it a very safe 10c face pitch), and the the 5.11 slab pitch on Freeblast (there are essentially 2 sets of bolts there, one is for slab climbing and the other for yarding on), and then we can see how well "we" all pactice what we preach...
If that thing really is 45 degrees, it ain't no gimmie to lead on gear (though I guess you could still lay it back like that).
-Fc
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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The FAs of EBMC and the Salathe happened at a time when those pitches were beyond the limit of what had been shown to be possible wrt free climbing. Was the ow/layback in HK's pic originally a bolt ladder on an aid climb put up in the pre-wide gear era?
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FREEclimber
Social climber
SF
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It didn't make a difference to the bolts that used to protect the #4 cam sized OW on the Good Book.
I think the fact that those bolts (Yosemite and Squamish examples) all help facilitate much of the traffic those routes see is a big part of their perceived legitimacy.
No question that pitch is a way different pitch w/ no bolts.
I would be bummed to find that climb bolted in the valley, but I don't see the difference. Those bolts are not spaced for free climbing, they are/were meant to be stood on.
-Fc
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fern
climber
Vancouver
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I think Perry Beckham who did the first free ascent of
that pitch in the photo said something like
"Thank God someone bolted it before it was freed!"
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Pastrami
Trad climber
Somewhere on this Planet
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Thank God most of these chopping heroes cannot get their ass up the Grand Wall! Perry's layback still has remains of the old 1/4 bolts (I assume they are from the FA, they look that old), so it is just replacing the FA's bolts with new stuff. And the 3rd original pitch used to be a bolt ladder, now is a 5.7R, 30 feet in between the bolts
Just keep your frickin' ethics in Yosemite, and leave others alone (so we can have decent climbs when traveling)
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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A midget could aid that route without cams or a cheater stick.
It doesn't matter where you are; bolts next to cracks are lame.
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FREEclimber
Social climber
SF
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ethics schmethics, i say photoshop that picture so the climber is freaking out and the bolts are gone, and then collect some freebeer on your next roadtrip...
Hey Minerals-
SICK EM!
GO GET EM!
DON'T LET EM GET AWAY WITH THAT!
say- you good for another case of beer on this one?
errrr, btw, what ever happened to those bolts you posted about on the LT?
-Fc
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Woof woof.
I think the bolts are still there. I've heard unconfirmed rumors that bolts were added to the route for the free attempt. Maybe I will have to go back up there and do some more chopping. Speaking of choppoing bolts... how 'bout the Dihedral... how many have been added? How many hangers can I expect to harvest?
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