Free routes on El Cap

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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 1, 2012 - 11:52am PT
How many routes go free to the "top" of El Capitan?


For kicks, let's define an "El Cap route" as anything between, but not including, the West Face and the East Buttress.


Clint, don't spoil the fun too soon, OK?
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Nov 1, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
Then you leave out Salami Ledge and the West Chimney. :-)
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Nov 1, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
By Difficulty:

Magic Mushroom - 5.14a FFA - Tommy Caldwell, Justen Sjong.
Dihedral Wall - 5.14a FFA - Tommy Caldwell.
The Nose - 5.14a FFA - Lynn Hill.

The Prohpet - 5.13d FFA - Leo Houlding
Zodiac - 5.13d FFA - Alex and Thomas Huber.
preMuir - 5.13d (Muir finish variation) FFA - Rob Miller, Justen Sjong

Lurking Fear - 5.13c FFA - Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden
El Nino - 5.13c A0 FFA - Alex and Thomas Huber.
Muir Wall 5.13c A0 (via Shaft variation) FFA - Scott Cosgrove, Kurt Smith
West Buttress - 5.13c FFA - Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden
Passage to Freedom - 5.13c/d A0 (Only goes to El Cap Tower via New Dawn) FFA - Leo Houlding, Ivo Ninov, Tim Emmet
The Secret Passage - 5.13c R FFA - Nicolas Favresse, Seán Villanueva.


El Corazon - 5.13b FFA - Alex Huber.
Golden Gate - 5.13b FFA - Alex and Thomas Huber
Salathe Wall - 5.13b FFA - Todd Skinner, Paul Piana

Freerider - 5.13a - Alex and Thomas Huber

From:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1251901&tn=0&mr=0
FrankZappa

Trad climber
Hankster's crew
Nov 1, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
Not to trivialize anyone's accomplishments, but how can an A0 mean free route?
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
D'oh!

I even contributed to that original thread, cultureshock!

But the list above is missing Lost in Transletion, .12b/c.
Maybe overlooked because it's not a Grade IV?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 1, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
> Muir Wall 5.13c A0 (via Shaft variation) FFA - Scott Cosgrove, Kurt Smith

Tommy and Nick freed the last bits - no A0 anymore.

Answer to Kelly's original question, posted on the other thread a few days ago:
17-19.

Lost in Translation/Transletion - treat the same as East Buttress, in my opinion. They are very close to each other.
ec

climber
ca
Nov 1, 2012 - 06:03pm PT
'Never paid sh*t to climb any route on The Captain...They're all free...

 ec
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
Lost in Translation, put up as a Grade V.

So I suppose I agree to not count it, if your intent is to only count Grade VI climbs as El Cap routes.

This comes up now and again. Just because a route is on El Cap doesn't qualify it as an El Cap route.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Nov 1, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
I always thought the West Face counted as an El Cap route. Maybe because in the early days my climbing it was still a grade VI aid route.
Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
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