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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 28, 2012 - 06:09pm PT
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"We always throw carrots off first"
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DMBARN
Trad climber
Modesto
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Oct 28, 2012 - 07:30pm PT
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I heard Paul tell that story at A16 in Santa Monica not too long after they did that. I still remember it to this day and smile. I forgot about the boulder part and just retell about the carrot toss and didn't someone break their clavicle from that carrot?
Doug
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Oct 28, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
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Good work Jody.
Time passes slowly up here in the mountains
We sit beside bridges and walk beside fountains
Catch the wild fishes that float through the stream
Time passes slowly when you’re lost in a dream
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Oct 28, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
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Feel bad not making it to this one. Events conspired against me. Love to see the silverbacks basking !
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Tim Camuti
Trad climber
CA
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Oct 28, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
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Sounds like it will be happening annually with a different theme each year! Very much looking forward to it- low cost, GREAT location and hospitality, wonderful food nearby and lodging within walking distance, the conference was a great success in addition to the obviously great content delivered in the numerous presentations. Well planned and enjoyable, I enjoyed the visit to Oakdale and REALLY enjoyed rubbing elbows with the greats of climbing. Not only are they great climbers with wonderful stories to tell, but great people with a lot of life experience to share even on the big picture issues of balancing work and play, family, money, business, travel, choices of priorities, etc.
Learning from our elders is just a rewarding endeavour and I hope more people are able to make it out next year for more stories and life lessons! It's almost like the Supertaco campfire LIVE. Thanks to all presenters for coming out and to the wonderful organizers, Frost and Grossman and Oakdale. WOoHoo!
Excited after a great weekend
Tim
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Oct 29, 2012 - 01:14am PT
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OH MY GOD! What a terrific experience. So many great exchanges with hero's and legends the likes of the 50th anniversary of the nose, YCA did a few years back.
Steck, Dick Long, Joe Fitchen, Glen Denny, Wayne Merry, Don Lauria, Paul Piana, Doug Robinson, Peter Haan, Ken Yager, Hans Florine, Bowinkle, Tom Frost, Royal Robbins, Bob Swift, Jerry Gallwas, Mike Sherrich, Nick Clinch, Rich Calderwood, Joe Mccuen, Ken Boche, and David Yearian plus many, many, others made these last few day made for an exciting time.
The stories, camaraderie, photos, priceless gear, perfect venue and Steve Grossmans many hours of preparation made for a union of our community tighter then ever. It warms my heart to see everyone gathering like this. With a loose fitting band of close nit individuals and small band of friends with wild but intimate experiences; opening up and sharing the secrets of the past.
Climbing is an integral, important and vital part history. It should be preserved and captured for the future of climbers and even the general public. Thanks to the work of people like Steve Grossman and Ken Yager and events like this will carry the message of our sport for many generations.
I feel very privileged to have participated in the 1st Climbers Festival of Oakdale. I only hope that this is the first of much more to come. Those of you who chose something else to do this weekend truly missed out on a magical moment in the climbing world. Steve, I have know idea if you can ever out do this one. I hope so but you set the bar pretty high. I will anticipate next years conference with relish!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 29, 2012 - 06:13am PT
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http://www.glendenny.com/portfolio2.html
It was a pleasure to meet Glen, a former resident of Merced County and Yosemite like myself. His book was being pretty much devoured by eager buyers of distinctive photography, it looked like.
The talented writer but, according to some publishers, NOT WELL-ENOUGH KNOWN Joe Fitschen had to take his act on the road to try and find a publisher, but like any of the men whospoke about making one's own equipment to meet the needs of certain first ascents, he took the bull by the horns and with his determination produced Whole Tone Press, his very own publishing company, which produced this fine-ass literature...
Joe is so worthy of your patronage. http://www.joefitschen.com
Here's my copy of Going Up. The first endpaper is the "Bad Boys Page" or the Eastsiders Page. The Title endpaper is the "Heroes Page." And the book at the Festival was $30, not $32, for those in attendance.
"The weather's been just beautiful the last 3 days. I know it had to have been amazing in Oakdale too. Life is just so grand and sweet. I wish I could be at all places and do everything. Far far too less time remaining."
The last is from Rick Sylvester, who spent the last several days x-c skiing on skins at Tahoe, hot-tubbing, bagging pine needles and watching the Series. Same with The Dingus, who couldn't resist the lure of some balm in the mountains, either. You guys make it next year to the Festival. NO EXCUSES!!!
Add a big bump for Jim "Crusher" Bartlett, whose fine book Desert Towers was on sale as well. He was so cool. He gave me this framed photo and one like it to Ben Robinson, my gracious host/chauffer for the weekend.
http://www.deserttowersbook.com/ or
http://www.sharpendbooks.com/
"Gentle Ben" was with The Mad Bolter on several expeditions in various locations. Do you know this spot? LilaBiene knows.
For myself, I thoroughly enjoyed Peter Haan's presentation the best of those I heard. Nice, interesting and very reflective. As only Peter is able to be. We said no stinkin' prayers, Jody!
I only missed Paul Piana's talk because I was spending time with LilaBiene and her Muppet downing pizza out in the plaza under the full moon. Paul told me later how he dinged that left leg. He also related how he broke the right leg at work in two places by getting bumped from a scaffold and landing forty feet below on concrete, no helmet! He claimed that was far worse. Great meeting him for the first time. He is now living in Newcastle, WY.
Wayne Merry, Fossil Climber, looks as robust as a slice of Irish cheese. Posture belongs to the young, too, folks. You will drink your milk, children. "Dot stuff vill not kill you."
This whole event revolved around the legend and life of John Salathe. We heard stories of angelsand either horse and colt or cow and calf: cobra venom supposedly being fed to John by Mrs. S. and his friends telling her to get the hell away (where in hell would she even GET cobra venom?); the story of the Model T axle, countered by the observation that he used no Model T axle because he had access to all the steel types and didn't have to rely on that source for the type of steel needed for the Salathe horizontals--yet John claimed to see one when visited by his friends at the rest home.
Tom Frost told us "you're never going to see a better hardware collection than this one here today." The staggering array of iron and aluminum and soft metal pitons included virtually all the well-known European brands of the early years as well as Longware, Holubar, Dolt, Chouinard, Leeper, Jerry Gallwas homemade ones, and others. There were, in addition, Dolt bashies, nuts, pulleys, and holsters, etc.
Tom's understated humor is priceless, and he made a few remarks worthy of reporting verbatim. (Yes, I was taking notes, gang.)
"What we have here is the real people...I can't even believe we're all still here....Steve has this vision of hardware and it won't go away."
"I never realized how shadowy this Chouinard character was....The most enjoyable ten years of my life was my employment as Chouinard's partner."
"I'd ride a bike from Anaheim to SantaMonica to visit him [Dolt]....We shared a common vision."
Frost is responsible for the lightening holes in their bong-bongs. He told us about Doug Robinson stopping at Tom's desk to look at the drawings for a new piece of gear. "Oh, that's a stopper," he said. Tom used two-loop aiders. Anything longer is for sissies like Royal.
Thank you, especially to Ramona Howard and Steve Grossman, our great MC, and his better 60%, Mimi.
And lastly, to the redoubltable Chicken Skinner, the Youngest Old Tier there, in his estimation. Good job, Ken! "Score, wow...whatever."
The Dolt was there today. Don Lauria gave a great history of West Ridge in LA, assisted by Ken Boche's comments, very welcome as the man's technical knowledge is exceptional. He worked for Don, as did many others like McLean, Hill, and Long. As the two were departing the stage after a heavy session on Bill Dolt's tragic death at his own hands, the Dolt spirit caused Don to bump the slide projection screen and down it went in Doltish glory! What would you expect with Odd, his daugher, and the Muppet, his granddaughter, present? It was one of those moments we treasure.
And you missed it!
Friday night we got to see Bill Nickell from Sunset, Phil Bircheff from over to Whitney Portal, as well as Dennis Oakshott. Jeff Mathis, the Rev, got to make Saturday afternoon, as did Mark Tuttle and his son, Logan, from Winton and Tuttle Outdoor. I finally got to meet up again with Tony Bird on Sunday after @ 23 years, too.
Beverly Wilson, Les' charming wife, shared with me how she met him on an organized ski mountaineering trip and how she got snagged into being the food coordinator for a two- or three-week-long expedition to Baffin Is. for some two dozen or so. She is an exceptional charmer and delightful conversationalist, Les, you lucky dog...
I'd like to thank the owner of Mountain Tools in Carmel, Larry Arthur, for allowing me to trade my raffle prize (oh, you blew your chances to win ropes, CBars, and T shirts, etc.) for a more useful item. He and the Rev and myself enjoyed a reverie of climbing the Monterey coast and rapping the Bixby Creek Bridge.
Thanks Wayno and Dave Yerian for the 4:20 "treatment."
I feel as if I have just completed my second social Grade VI in a month, but I had lots of help.
Like John Salathe said, "I'm delighted to have made it but I am Ax-hausted."
Will someone kidnap Roper next year and bring him kicking and screaming?
I can't wait for the BooDawg's post.
LilaBiene and the Muppet (Camila) will join BooDawg for some time in Mariposa, then head south to visit Mark Powell. Bon voyage, Sister Purple Bee!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 29, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
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Non, quelle tragique! We know it wasn't That Darn French Guy or Phillipe. They didn't make it to the Festival, either.
A dollar says whoever spilled the water will never cop to it, Jody.
(Thanks, BTW.)
"Ach! I told you dot ve took too much vasser again, Anton, but you don't ever listen, vill you?"
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 29, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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I wondered about that prayer...
I first heard the carrot story from Todd quoting Paul. I can still see his expressions....
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Oct 29, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
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Wow! Didn't realize how awesome it was gonna be. I'll be there next year for sure. Great stuff, everyone!
edit: Jody - "Soaked!" -- Dang bro, that hurts just to hear about it! Sorry about that!! (if ya had yer gun, i wudda been tempted to shoot them in the foot or sumpthin'/they're lucky they split early, lol)! ...just kidding! ;)
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Oct 29, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
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Mouse - Do you know this spot? LilaBiene knows. Which route? DUH!
Dolt Tower/The Nose! ...DUH!!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 29, 2012 - 01:07pm PT
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Duh Word!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Oct 29, 2012 - 02:27pm PT
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i kinda accidently showed up at this and was delighted. stick with climbing--it'll keep you sharp well into your 80s and 90s and you will have friendships that last as long as you do.
cheers to steve grossman, whose brainchild this first-time event was. a tireless climb historian, he got a goldmine of information from the great climbers who told their stories here. plans are afoot for the second-annual already, and i wish him well with it.
the best part was staying up late and drinking (wine), then getting up early and drinking (coffee). continuing the grand tradition of "climb all day, party all night".
i think don lauria ought to get involved with publicity--his clever ads for long-ago west ridge mountaineering kinda went over my head. what's the difference between a deluxe and standard bivouac kit?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 29, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
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That's what you call subtle advertising, TB. It makes you wonder, so you call and they get customer feedback. In theory.
So Dolt copied his ads. How's that work out for him.
You are right as rain when you say stick with climbing, the friendships last.
I've known the Rev and Jim Shirley and Wayne Merry and Donini over forty years, for example.
I hadn't seen Jim since 1996 until last June. The Reva and I get together when we can and always seem to enjoy the "Synch." Wayne and I haven't seen each other in forty years, until Friday. Donini I haven't laid eyes on in that long. I plan on rectifying that. The ST and the festival do this for all us climbers.
I just saw Tony Bird for the first time in over eighteen years, yet I recognized him and he recognized me immediately. Having been on a rope does this.
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Oct 29, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
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BUMP
Tony, it was nice meeting you and hearing about the early days at Ventura and other stories.
Hey BooDawg, wheres the pic's? You took a ton of them!
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Oct 29, 2012 - 04:55pm PT
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Pics are coming but delayed due to "techincal difficulties." Patience please...
Seems like at every gathering like this or Facelift, I come back to the Taco and realize that many from here attended the event, and I still didn't actually meet them. Like Jody, for example.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 29, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
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All I can say is, Wow, what a great heartfelt event. I have a new appreciation for the work Steve and Mimi do. I met so many of my heroes that I was a bit overwhelmed at times, and there were so many that I didn't get to meet and it is bittersweet because it is hard to say how long these guys will be around. The presentations were all so good and at times moving that it is hard to pick a favorite. Tom and Royal had me laughing hard one moment and holding back tears the next. Peter Haan's eloquence was also very moving. Paul Piana's cowboy humor and sense of humility was very refreshing. Al Steck's presence was commanding and I really enjoyed Nick Clinch talk about roping up The Man, Salathe.
I think more than all the great speakers and attendees present, the theme of the Road to Commitment and the many similar themes and philosophies really bound us all together. I will have plenty to ponder over the next few weeks and some great literature to enjoy.
Many thanks to all those involved in this wonderful event.
Dave, brother, thanks for coming with me to the fest and then taking me to Sonora to see my nephew. It meant a lot.
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Oct 29, 2012 - 08:09pm PT
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Just prior to a very emotional moment when Don Laurie takes the mike. Felt it was not the best time to take a photo.
Steve did a great job and looking to go to 2013
And let me burn in hell for a few minutes for not coming on Friday night.
Sunday: What can I say but great history.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 29, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
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"Raise your hands, anyone, if you have done the Salathe."--Tom Frost on stage with RR
"We all have our shadows whether we know them or not."
and
"Ultimately, Dolt's life was his own responsibility."--Words of comfort from BooDawg for Don Lauria and all of us
Wow, the people who visit this forum are so articulate that it scares me to put anything down. But I am planning on traveling a bit to promote my new book,the second volume of my autobiography, Fail Falling (i.e. it's OK to fail, but go down trying). This book is about climbing in Southern California in the 1950's, which may seem like a long time ago to some of you, but not to me. Much of the climbing takes place on Tahquitz Rock, but I also visited Yosemite then, and recount the free ascent of the Higher Cathedral Spire in 1952 and the ascent of the North Face of Sentinel Rock in 1953. The Spire had been done free before (the first free ascent was by Chuck Wilts in 1947) and Don Wilson, Jerry Gallwas and I made the second ascent on Sentinel in 1953 (The first ascent was by Salathe and Steck in 1950). But I end the book with a description of the first ascent of the NW Face of Half Dome by Gallwas, Mike Sherrick, and me. I will post more later when I get the dates firmed up. Thanks for your attention.--RR post from last year
He's front and center in the plaid shirt.
Here's about the most appropiate shot of a hero I can find in this context. Pat Ament we surely could stand to see you here at Oakdale next year.
A haiku sequence for the old school, dedicated to the PO, our Poet Odsechoolate.
/Ten Haiku Boulder//
this aft
Warbler's sister's haikus
Skipt across his memory
Like a lead balloon.
this morn
Alyssa defined arc,
At the bookstore, as a part,
A circle segment.
she said
Arch comes from an arc,
Has nada to do with an ark,
Noah, nor Noe Valley.
recall
St. George's Homes are
Up on Arch Street in Berkeley.
Where kids go crazy.
sorta
Just like Roper,
Pratt, and Long, and all the rest
We climbed on the Arches.
it seems
A Long time ago
This crew descended: en masse
To TMs they went.
but when?
Oh, many years ago;
They needed priming, to know
Where they were needed.
and why?
Kids feed on heroes:
They pray for them and to them,
To be just like them.
even
Heroes sometimes die,
Taking us with them to hells
Which they don't deserve.
you see
What hero worship
Does? Kills what's inside of you
And nobody wins.
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Oct 29, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
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Mouse great write up; hope Odd and the Muppet especially Odd will hopefully in time get a better chance now to communicate with Don.
Great seeing you, as well as great words and wisdom.
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