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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 29, 2012 - 07:22pm PT
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This classic adventure was the first real wall climb in Yosemite involving repeated bivouacs and truly grueling climbing. Anton Nelson and John Salathé combined to establish the most demanding technical rock climb in North America. Nelson the pastor and Salathé the clever craftsman set the standard for elemental climbing style drawing deeply upon inner character and strength to accomplish this amazing climb.
This account first appeared in the 1948 Sierra Club Bulletin and was reprinted as shown here in Galen Rowell's Vertical World of Yosemite, 1974.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Aug 29, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
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Thanks Steve. Always like your contributions. Was nice to reread this and get psyched to climb the spire this fall.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 29, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
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Those guys really knew how to stretch out a good experience.......probably didn't wolf down there food either.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2012 - 01:19pm PT
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Evan at the Ansel Adams Gallery relayed a story about Anton and John having dinner at Ansel Adams' house after they all got down. Ansel had hauled his camera gear all the way up the Falls Trail.
John ate his usual pile of nuts and fruit while Anton dispatched several steaks!
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steve shea
climber
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Aug 31, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
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thanks Steve
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
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It's just us...
The depth of their effort is pretty staggering if you try to imagine what they went through on less than two quarts per man per day for five sweltering days. The original HARD MEN!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 26, 2012 - 06:41pm PT
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Article by Bob Swift, 1955 SC Bulletin.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 26, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
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Them boys knew how to suffer in style and with dignity.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 29, 2012 - 06:55am PT
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While at Oakdale, I met Bob Swift, and a more gracious gent one seldom meets.
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east side underground
climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Oct 29, 2012 - 10:18am PT
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Climbed this excellent route, the" 5.9 " OW on pitch 2 was burly. Second error bivy is awesome.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 29, 2012 - 10:36am PT
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Ah...the leisurely place of gentleman climbers. Why is everyone in such a rush these days?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 31, 2012 - 12:50am PT
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The Lost Arrow horizontal piton is based on the design of John Salathe. Common knowledge among older climbers who have used them. But the naming belongs to Yvon, according to Tom Frost. He named it firstly to honor his mentor, the inventive Swiss. Its shape evoked the Lost Arrow istself, especially so when the imaginary eye of the upright piton is attached to the wall of Yosemite Falls and Point.
Draw your own mental picture.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 31, 2012 - 01:38am PT
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THIS IS DEFINITELY A CLICK TO ENLARGE SHOT!
Does that spire resemble a Lost Arrow wedge or a LA short thick or is it just another cock-shaped rock? All three, IMO.
The oddest thing just happened, too; but then the odd is the regular in Middle Earth, so....
I went over to the TR posted by the dynamic young Vitaliy M. and it turns out that he and his partner Amy did the LA Direct and he laid some fine photos out. This is what exactamente I needed and couldn't find to finish my last post above.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Lost-Arrow-Spire-Direct-Cragger-and-Taper-get-WORKED/t11743n.html
Vitaliy, I tellya, it's Batso! It is!
He and the Dolt been havin' some Middle Earth-type fun the last few days...
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Nohea
Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
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Very cool!
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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Once upon a time (maybe '60 or '61) when I was a rookie ranger working on the front desk, Ax Nelson came in. He introduced himself and I congratulated him on the Arrow Chimney. He asked if anyone had ever repeated the route, and I said they had. Upon which he said, "Well, I'm darn sure no one will ever do it in less than four days!"
I didn't tell him.
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Swifter
Social climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Nov 21, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
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Photo by Mary Ann "Corky" Matthews
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
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Nice shot Bob!
Here's one of yours from the Stanford Alpine Club history. Very cool photo.
Is this anywhere near the scene of the rescue story involving John Salathé that you told at the Oakdale Festival?
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stonefly
Social climber
Alameda, California
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Nov 22, 2012 - 11:54am PT
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Swifter
Social climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Nov 22, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
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