Moving on from Acopa Merlins

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mbweha

Ice climber

Salt Lake City, Utah

Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 29, 2012 - 07:04am PT

So I have a confession to make... 3 years ago when I was an just starting out I bought some Acopa Merlins as my first pair of shoes. I didn't do any research and bought them because they were on sale at the black diamond retail store and the rock gym was right around the corner. (and they looked pretty cool)

I wear them for pretty much everything now, and they are ridiculously comfortable, but they are starting to get the holes and cracks of a well loved pair of shoes.

I think they have a few months left, but I am joining the comp bouldering team at uni and don't want them to die there.

So is it possible to resole them with non-acaopa rubber (I haven't found anyone who has it in stock) OR are there any shoes currently made that offer a similar fit, OR does anyone have some sitting in a box that I could buy?

ron gomez

Trad climber

fallbrook,ca

Aug 29, 2012 - 09:32am PT

Try Locker in Colorado, he may have some Acopa rubber or at least have a recomendation for new RUBBER.
Peace

Capt.

climber

some eastside hovel

Aug 29, 2012 - 09:37am PT

When I get my Acopas resoled here I get the "old" 5.10 rubber put on.Rubber Room says it's the closest to Acopa rubber.Maybe try that.I'm not exactly sure what "old" 5.10 rubber is but when Tony talks rubber,I listen. ;-)

edit:^^What ron says.Talk to Locker.He'll set ya straight.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Aug 29, 2012 - 09:45am PT

You can pretty much learn to climb and be successful in any shoe that fits. Differences in performance of both shoes and rubber are overrated.

justthemaid

climber

Jim Henson's Basement

Aug 29, 2012 - 10:14am PT

Just resole them in C-4. Acopa rubber sucks anyhow. My JB's got several resoles before falling to pieces and I didn't miss the Acopa rubber one bit.

You will, eventually, have to find a new shoe by another manufacturer. Better start shopping if you already have holes in the old ones.

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Aug 29, 2012 - 10:27am PT

As Maid says just above.

The "favorite shoes" challenge has now come to you also; as well it should. You know we ALL have this issue. It is very much a part of climbing. You are not in some kind of peculiar spot.

There are so many good shoes out there. You have more valid choices than ever before. So get with this amazing bonanza and quit holding yourself back as if these current shoes of yours are the reason you have done some good leading. You will climb better, I guarantee. And as J-Do has said above, the issue is your actual climbing; the differences between shoes, between rubbers, are quite a bit more minor than imagined.