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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 15, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
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An interesting account of the 1963 West Ridge of Everest climb written by Willi Unsoeld which appeared in The Mountain World 1964/65. The Mountain World was published by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research and is a great source of alternative accounts of major ascents like this one. Fun to read Willi's perspective.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 15, 2012 - 06:18pm PT
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A wonderful achievment that did not get nearly the acclaim that it deserved.
It's cooled off.....heading to the Black, see you later!
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jul 15, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
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Back when men were men and Everest was really a mountain.
Willi was one of my hero's since I was maybe 10.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
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I wish Willi was still around to talk about this great adventure but this account will have to do.
Have fun Jim!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 15, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
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What a fine human being. As hard as it is to believe I recall being totally
tongue-tied meeting him for the first time. I just basked in his glow.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 15, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
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A nice combination with Hornbein's "Everest: The West Ridge", one of my favouritest mountaineering books. A very stout effort. It's interesting that the Chinese, on the NE ridge of Everest in 1960, and then the American on the west ridge in 1963, were doing things of a difficulty that wasn't really approached on other 8,000 m peaks for some years afterward, apart from the Abruzzi Ridge on K2.
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the goat
climber
north central WA
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Jul 15, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
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Nice post Steve. The W. Ridge and Tom Hornbein came up in a conversation
just a few days ago, basically about how great an achievement it was for
the time, hell, even now!. And, the relative anonymity in which Tom and
Willi lived after such an outstanding achievement. We all know who got the
press and praise, deserved or otherwise.
What's important is that the climbing community continue to appreciate what
they did and recognize it. Bishop and Jerstad
also deserve much recognition, tough guys for sure.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jul 15, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
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unsoeld's book on this matter sits near my shitter.
i've so much to learn from my predesessors.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
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The picture of commitment Sierra Club Bulletin October 1967,
The companion W.H.Murray quote.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jul 15, 2012 - 09:31pm PT
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A group of Bay Area climbers headed over to SF Airport to send them off. Man that seems like a million years ago.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 15, 2012 - 10:07pm PT
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Absolutely one of the great achievements of Himalayan mountaineering. It boggles my mind how much out there those guys were. TFPU.
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Conrad
climber
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Jul 15, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
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An amazing climb that has yet to see a repeat. Hats off to Tom, Willi and the entire team. Sherpa sons and grandsons of the '63 AMEE are still working on (or in conjunction with) the mountain. A few images from the same mountain 49 years later.
Thanks Steve for your continuing contribution to all matters historical.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 15, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
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Thanks, Conrad. Has no one ever repeated the 1963 west ridge route, from the western cwm up? IIRC, various parties have used the Hornbein Couloir, but none via the original approach to the west shoulder.
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Conrad
climber
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Jul 15, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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Pretty sure that is the case. The Japanese Couloir to the Hornbein from the Central Rongbuk in Tibet has seen several ascents. The West Shoulder via the Khumbu Glacier with the traverse to the South Col in Nepal still awaits. Way ahead of their time, they were.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 15, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
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Thanks much Steve and Conrad.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Jul 26, 2012 - 11:21am PT
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It was a long time back, but thanks for the memory jog, guys.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
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Classic Willi bump...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 12, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
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BUMP
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
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How did the AAC Everest reunion go?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Apr 14, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
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The American Mountaineering Museum held the annual gala last
weekend, and placed two of the '63 Everest expedition into
their Hall of Mountaineering Excellence--Norman Dyhrenfurth, the leader,
and the late Barry Corbet. Attendees included Dr. Thomas Hornbein, Dr. Dave Dingman, Dick Pownall, and Al Auten.
Other Honorees included Jeff Lowe, (Yay Jello)!!!, Peter Metcalf, and
Nick Clinch, who led the expedition of Americans climbing their first
8,000 meter peak, Hidden Peak.
There was a preview of the Everest '63 movie that will premier at Mountainfilm in Telluride this year, and a conversation between the
four Everest attendees--quite a special night, indeeed!
(the only reason this dirtbag got in was because he was tending
bar for the patrons)!!!
Below is a link to some photos from the event. . .
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.446934412047387.1073741827.110659965674835&type=3
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