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Majid_S
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 27, 2006 - 01:59am PT
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You guys always talk about the fastest single or group climbers on El Cap but what is the record time for the slowest team to finish El Cap? 7 days!! 10 Days!!
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Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
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Apr 27, 2006 - 02:03am PT
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Well I seem to remember Warren Harding being involved in some sort of Chongo-esque ubersiege that took 45 days over 2 years. Embarassing I tell you...just shameful.
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Majid_S
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2006 - 02:05am PT
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I got 45 days as the record , less move down to the list and get the next record if any
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Eddie
Trad climber
Boston
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Apr 27, 2006 - 02:10am PT
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"Wings of Steel – A record 39 days on the face of El Capitan"
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Apr 27, 2006 - 02:42am PT
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Harding's two years for the Nose was at least partly due to the NPS telling him that the Wall was off-limits between Memorial and Labor Day weekends (tourists causing traffic jams, as it were.)
TRIVIA! While the Nose was off limits to him, Harding did the East Face of the Washington Column - now called Astroman. EDIT: WH went up with Chuck Pratt, a rare FA; they did Watkins later.
So, the Nose took 45 days, over a long time. I think the longest he was up there was about 12 days.
Harding and Dean Caldwell spent 29 days (I think) on the Wall of the Early Morning Light.
I don't claim to have a record, but I set a personal best last June: 19 days on New Dawn to Tribal Rite. Nice. We topped out with lots of food and water, and even beer (no whiskey, tho). We got stormed in for a total of about seven or ten days. I figure we did the Dawn Wall in fine style, just like Harding on the WOEML.
There is a line where the concept of Wall Climbing quits, and the new concept of Wall Camping takes over and keeps going.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 27, 2006 - 03:11am PT
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If we consider days continually on the wall, I think the recent records are:
 29 days, Wall of Early Morning Light, Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell, 1970
39 days, Wings of Steel, Richard Jensen and Mark Smith, 1981
42? days, Verano Magico?, Luis Gallego and Javier Gallego, 1985?
My memory on the last route is hazy - my recollection is that it was over 40 days.
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Alan Doak
climber
boulder, co
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Apr 27, 2006 - 11:42am PT
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I think I have the record for the slowest nose-in-a-day ascent. It took us 23h52m. Anyone slower?
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Apr 27, 2006 - 12:27pm PT
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hahah
Hollinger was pretty close to that. He might even have been 23:55 or so. Truly an enviable record.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Apr 27, 2006 - 12:37pm PT
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[url="http://www.rockclimbing.com/ascent/index.php?AscentID=339"]My first solo of El Cap was Iron Hawk.[/url] I chose the route because I knew nothing about it other than Warren Hollinger told me it was a nice route, and because it was longer and harder than anything I had yet climbed. Despite being in Free Climbing Retirement, I knew I had to knock off some stout and scary obligatory free climbing at the top.
I was up there sixteen days after like four days of fixing, because I had to learn how to solo big walls! It seemed like a good place to learn. My Wall Doctor - Chongo - had to shout up instructions on how to climb an expanding flake because I had never done it before.
Hans Florine was impressed, and gave me [url="http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/notnecsry.htm"]my own page on his El Cap speed climbing website![/url]
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Apr 27, 2006 - 01:07pm PT
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"There is a line where the concept of Wall Climbing quits, and the new concept of Wall Camping takes over and keeps going."
That's it!
Who needs a climber ranch in the Valley. Lets get the NPS to install some hookups on the face of El Cap.
Yosemite can have the very first "climb-in" only campground.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Apr 27, 2006 - 01:40pm PT
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Great post.
The free-climbing equivalent, what is the longest time spent on a Grade I or II.
I knew somebody that had a forced bivy on the East Wall of Lover's Leap (after starting in the late morning). Yikes.
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Blakeb
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Apr 27, 2006 - 02:09pm PT
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Im pretty sure chongo is known for some slow ascents on the wall for a month at a time and at one time hitch hiking others ropes the whole way up. Also how long was dave turner up last summer while putting up his new routes. I thought he was packing water for like 27 odd days or something.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Apr 27, 2006 - 08:06pm PT
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Pete, could you drop a few more names in your posts. We didn't get enough spray in our face.
Thanks
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Gene
climber
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Apr 27, 2006 - 08:07pm PT
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I've been thinking about it for 36 years. Does that count for anything?
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Apr 27, 2006 - 08:15pm PT
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Chongo is known for eating all my food and everyone elses. Mother f*#ker!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Apr 27, 2006 - 08:40pm PT
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Actually, Chongo fed me and Neal after our clusterfrigged ascent of Zodiac. He had been on the wall for something like 15 days, and had tons of food leftover.
It was about this time I realized there simply had to be a Better Way.
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Elcapinyoazz
Mountain climber
Anchorage, Alaska
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Apr 27, 2006 - 09:05pm PT
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Give it a rest Peter. Maybe go to rockclimbing.com where some starry eyed new climbers will be impressed. I think most of us here have run a few laps on the Capt, and more importantly have heard your repitious self wanking spray to the point of vomiting.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Apr 27, 2006 - 09:15pm PT
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We were out of food. Chongo gave us some. Is there something wrong with writing this?
You know, Azz, if you had any balls, you would write under a real name. It's easy enough for you to sit up in Bumf*ck, Alaska, and hurl smart-ass epithets from a false identity, but your credibility is only as good as your identity.
And you have neither. So bite me.
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Apr 27, 2006 - 09:37pm PT
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I'm super-close friends with like ALL the Stonemasters. Met them on the Inturweb. Man the stories I could tell!
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Apr 28, 2006 - 12:47pm PT
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I spent 7 days summer before last climbing an established 12-pitch Grade V.
Nurse Ratchet and I spent 15 days (including fixing and waiting in line and fixing and waiting in line) on Muir Wall.
Had a forced bivy on a 5.6 climb once.
Come to think of it, I've bivied two different times on climbs of a popular Grade III 5.7 in the Valley.
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