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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 5, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
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My buddy just called me up and wants to climb Zodiac in two days (two days on the wall, not starting in two days) but he wants to do it soon. I have been practicing lots of clean aid, but have never pounded a pin and would prefer to do the route as clean as possible. Any suggestions? Any help is much appreciated. Yes i know i am absolutely positively going to die. I hate asking for wall beta, but hey, everyone is a noob at some point, and I figure the more info I get from people who know what they are doing, the better chance I have at making it.... wall vets help a brother out!
and yes...i know....I'M GONNA DIE!!!
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 06:35pm PT
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I'm expecting about 80% flaming and 20% help from this one haha...let's see what happens....
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nature
climber
CO
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Evaluate how determined your buddy is to get up the wall in two days. Will he still be your buddy if it takes three days?
The thing is.... if you do it IAD then you don't have a bunch of crap. if you plan for even one night you pretty much have the same amount of crap as for 7 nights (minus water/food/weed).
Edit: that was 80% help and 20% flame :-)
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
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^good point. We both have to work the following day, so it's not a matter of ego or desire to do it in that time, but more of a matter of necessity. He is pretty laid back, I'm sure we would still be cool.
Edit: that was 80% help and 20% flame :-)
Thanks :)
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nature
climber
CO
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well... zodiac isn't a bad route to retreat from. Just launch yourself and pretend to be a chicken. that landing is all worked out.
on the second morning you either decide to go for it or you bail. either way you learn something.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Bring cobras, and wear colourful clothing, otherwise Tom E will be upset.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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I've taken less experienced partners up Zodiac a few times and, unless you are remarkably talented figuring out systems and cleaning/jugging, there's no way you're going to get up that thing in Two days
Just something to keep in mind so you're prepared for the alternative
You can climb 5.13 but if you don't have unclusterf*#king skills and aren't really efficient, it takes time to develop the right chops to go that fast
peace
karl
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Short fix, and pay attention to making sure you eat and drink continuosly through the days (lots of people get distracted or leave the stuff in the haulbag and don't eat all day). Take some cam hooks. Link what you can, lead in blocks.
You might consider fixing to 3 with a couple ropes, then going to Peanut to sleep, then topping out. Don't need to haul a ledge that way. Still two days of climbing, just split over a half-day, full day, half-day.
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
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thanks for the advice karl. I actually have been practicing jugging/cleaning and unclusterf*#king techniques, so I feel fairly confident there
Elcapinyoazz, thanks. I do tend to rush and not eat and drink. I'll run that option by him and see what he thinks. and we will definitely be shortfixing
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Prod
Trad climber
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You've never done a wall? How about your Buddy?
If it is a first for both of you, or even just one of you, I'd take your time and enjoy it. The best part of walling is camping on the wall. Everything else is either hard work or scary as hell.
Prod.
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
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he's done plenty. this will be my first. I have been trying to line up partners for the past month to climb, but he is the only one who isn't a flake so i figure i'll go with him and even though it will be rushed it will be a good experience, and will at the very least be type 2 fun
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Prod
Trad climber
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Don't be his belay bitch. Make sure you get your leads in. I'd personally not do a wall in a rush for my first wall. It just does not sound like fun, and you have sith tons more to learn, why clutter it up with worrying about time. Climbing is supposed to be fun...
Prod.
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
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^you are probably right prod. I have just been itching to get on a wall. However, when the options for that time period are go up a wall with him, or keep sitting at home and reading the big walls book, I'm gunna go suffer and climb :)
and i will not be belay bitch that's FER SURE!! haha
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Tried to do the Nose in two days once. It was my partner's first wall (I'd done a few). We didn't make it, but had a great time, but in retrospect I'd have done a smaller wall and topped out. Don't let your partner talk you into this situation - it'll probably feel like your fault when you don't make it (you being less experienced, slower), but it's his bad planning. You'll never make it. It will suck bailing off El Cap.
Plan for 4 days for Zodiac or go climb something on the Leaning Tower or the Column.
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
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You'll never make it
Now there's the motivation I needed!!!
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Prod
Trad climber
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it'll probably feel like your fault when you don't make it (you being less experienced, slower), but it's his bad planning. You'll never make it. It will suck bailing off El Cap.
Plan for 4 days for Zodiac or go climb something on the Leaning Tower or the Column.
Agree, but skip the tower and column, get on Zodiac and enjoy it. Is your partner a selfish dude? Why would he want to take a noob on a quasi-push?
Prod.
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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We are there for three days so I'm hoping i can talk him into fixing a few pitches on the first day and then blast
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WBraun
climber
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4 days on Zodiac?
Don't some sauerkraut eating euros do the whole route in the morning in a couple of hours?
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