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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 23, 2012 - 05:02am PT
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Hey all,
We are looking at heading out to Sedona for the holiday weekend.
Not sure if we will find tent space or not, but will give it a go.
Looking for some beta on a very low level (5.7 or lower) tower climb, or some easy to access moderate crags.
Any info, along with the name or address of the best climbing shop there, would be really appreciated.
Blue skies!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 23, 2012 - 09:50am PT
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The campgrounds in Oak Creek will probably be full;....you can check;...they are expensive anyways;.....camping for $20 always pisses me off;.....You can camp at the top of Schnebly Hill for free;..it's Nat. forest land or something like that;...you can have fires too up there, but the road is so long and bumpy;....I'd pass. Get a cheap ($50-$70) a nite hotel with a pool.....go swimming, drink beer , and watch TV. The Regular route on Queen Victoria (off of Schnebly Hill) is a great great climb;....it's 3 easy pitches of climbing to the small summit on a big desert spire with great view, good enough rock and pro, and it's only 5.7 max.......There is some bolted sport routes down by the slickrock area of Oak Creek where everyone swims for some short climbs. Bell Rock is another easy tick...with only a wee bit of 5.8;...mostly all scrambling, and another great summit without a death march approach. Mars Attack is wonderful,...but it's more like 5.8+ on the traverse pitch. The climb has a very short approach. The original route on Chimney Rock is only 5.7 (one pitch) ...but I haven't done it yet;...I believe it has some loose rock.....(go figure;..it's Sedona)..The Streaker Spire is 5.7....with OK climbing, and a very cool summit.....Goliath is 5.8/5.9 with a longer approach and some dicey climbing..call me up if you wish more details;....I love the climbing in Sedona......bye. todd gordon (760) 366-9395......
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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May 23, 2012 - 09:57am PT
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You have my permission to camp on madole road. A partner and I own all .63 acres- of the road. free camping!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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May 23, 2012 - 12:24pm PT
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The only tower I can think of right now at <5.7 is Streaker Spire, though I've done it twice and found the 5.6 crux awkward. It's a cool summit. For cragging you can head up to the Oak Creek Overlook. Awesome moderate trad cragging with a great view. Swim in the creek on your way back to camp.
I'm not sure about camping around Sedona (I lived in Flagstaff when I climbed there so didn't camp much cause it was close to home) but you might consider camping above the rim around flag. There are bazillions of miles of USFS road and tons of dispersed camping.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 23, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
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Sedona is a lot like Boulder with respect to camping. Mostly a thriving sign industry of the "No Camping" variety. Have heard there's some possibilities out west of town, and maybe south of town, but given how warm it will be, probably better to go up the canyon and camp above the Overlook in the pines. One option is about a mile past the "Senic Overlook" sign, left side headed for Flag, head up the road, switchback a couple times, and good sites above.
Todd's covered the tower options pretty well above...
Chimney Rock (5.7), one pitch, lots of loose rock at the top, but doable. Rap to the west.
Tisha Spire, North Face (5.7/8), two pitches.
Queen Victoria (5.7), three pitches, nice summit.
Streaker Spire (5.7+), three pitches, fun, nice summit, awkward slot crux on P3
The Overlook, at the top of Oak Creek Canyon has tons of cracks of all difficulties, mostly moderate, but some harder stuff. Tons of great 5.7 to 5.9.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 24, 2012 - 12:16am PT
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Good suggestions, Greg....although that Tisha Spire is a long hike and I found the climbing to be sort of dicey for the the 5.7/5.8 grade.....and the anchors weren't quite up to snuff either, if I remember correctly.....it's a long hike up there....
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nature
climber
CO
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May 24, 2012 - 12:48am PT
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probably the closest legal (free) camping is a bit north of the Overlook out the FS road the connects 89 to Kachina. watch out for loose chickens.
as far as 5.7 climbing it's all choss. yer dead fer sure.
have fun!
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2012 - 05:56am PT
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Thanks for the ideas, all.
Will take a look at the camping when we get there, but we figure it's likely that we will be in the hotel this trip.
Going to spend one day doing the artsy stuff for Mrs. VC, and then one day of climbing. Right now I'm thinking Queen Victoria will be our attempt for a tower, see how it goes.
Have a good weekend!
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