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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
Rubio
Advanced climber
abq, nm
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 11, 2002 - 04:32pm PT
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A friend and I recently free climbed the Rainbow Wall at Red Rocks. This route was originally nailed as an aid route, but now goes free at 5.12b. When the route was first freed, several bolts were added that severely reduced the aid difficulty. Before I climbed the route, I whined about how lame it is to add bolts to an existing route just so you can free it. But once I was on the route, I realized that this route would not go free without the bolts, unless the climber is willing to climb 5.12b X. The only gear on the crux pitches is in shallow flaring pin scars which are also the only holds.
Inevitably climbers will try to free every free-able pitch. Is it appropriate to retro-bolt an aid pitch in order to free it? If not, how should the pitch be freed? Should the climber aid to the belay, free the pitch on top rope and call it "Free"? Should the climber rig a static line with pre-tied clip in loops to preserve the rock? Or should sport climbers stay-the-hell off YOUR crag and go back to France where they belong?
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copperhead
Advanced climber
chopping school
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2002 - 05:07pm PT
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Bolts were also added to the lower pitches of New Jersey Turnpike to free it. Is this acceptable??
HELL NO!!!!!!!
Here we go again...
Just because someone can "free" an existing route does not mean that they can change the route to meet their needs. Respect the FA, they got there first. If you want to free it then you have to rely on whatever aid gear is available. DRILLING NEW BOLTS IS NOT ACCEPTABLE!!!!!!!
Or am I going to get the old "you don't have to clip it if you're aid climbing..."
Equalize 3 heads (granite), put a screamer on it, and run it out. The original aid route had fall potential and so should all other ascents. Besides, if you free it on existing aid gear then you are all the more rad. Who knows, it could get you into the mags and start a new rad trend...
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Nailer
Advanced climber
Pitonville
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2002 - 05:13pm PT
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Or how about this one...
Why can't I go nail an old nailing route anymore just because it goes free???
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dude
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2002 - 05:39pm PT
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like Bridwell told huber -
da huber "maybe PO wall go free?"
da bird "maybe, but ya wouldn't get any pro..."
no add bolts please
leave us some adventure please
get the FFA on TR and leave it for future studs who can climb 5.12 or 5.13 X
respect the rock & yourself by rising to the occasion not drilling
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tree hugger
Novice climber
the woods
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2002 - 09:02pm PT
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How is a bolt any worse than a piton scar? Should we be "creating" more Serenity Cracks?
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Nailer
Novice climber
Pitonville
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2002 - 12:11pm PT
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Hey, that was supposed to be a joke. Everyone knows I can't go nail the Nose -- Lynn would string me up by my balls and Burk might actually be able to free the thing!! No harm in a little humor right???
Listen to copperhead, he knows what's up!!
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copperhead
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2002 - 12:11pm PT
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Thank you Nailer
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tree hugger
Novice climber
the woods
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2002 - 05:59pm PT
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nailer,
Of course you were joking. I was simply trying to put my "tree hugger" view into the mix; perhaps this was not appropriate in this thread.
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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
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